Friday, July 8, 2022

Suits (The Delineator, May 1896)

 suit 

/su:t/

noun

1. a set of outer clothes made of the same fabric and designed to be worn together, typically consisting of a jacket and trousers or a jacket and skirt.

Women had worn matching skirt and bodice combinations before the 1890s (sometimes described by contemporaries as "suits") but it wasn't until the last decade of the nineteenth century that the classic pairing of skirt and jacket came into vogue.  The costumes illustrated below have typically tiny Victorian waists and sweeping skirts—not to mention those fantastic balloon sleeves—but they are undoubtedly plainer and more... businesslike than anything that came before.  Women were gradually moving out of the home and into the wider world, and their clothes reflected that.


Ladies' Jacket and Skirt. "...The jaunty box fronts are lapped and closed in double breasted style with button holes and buttons placed at the throat and below the waist... The collar is in military turn-down style and is inlaid with black velvet."


Ladies' Eton Costume.  "The newest style in the popular Eton costume is here illustrated, brown mixed cheviot being shown in the jacket and skirt and figured red silk in the blouse-waist."


Ladies Basque and Skirt.  "The toilette is here pictured made of cadet gray cloth and stylishly decorated with black braid, gilt buttons and black silk cord."

Ladies' Jacket and Skirt.  "The toilette is a most desirable style for the promenade and general outdoor wear and includes a covert jacket and a stylish skirt.  Light-brown broadcloth was here selected for the jacket which is skillfully shaped to give a long effect to the waist..."

Ladies' Toilette  "This toilette is somewhat severe in style, but is given much distinction by its military air.  It is here shown made up in a Scotch mixture and decorated with braid and buttons."

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