Monday, January 8, 2024

The Lammermoor Dress (Girl's Own Paper, January 31, 1891)

 The "Lammermoor" dress was probably named for Walter Scott's historical novel The Bride of Lammermoor.  The jacket is styled after an early 18th century gentleman's frock coat, with wide skirts, flap pockets and deep cuffs.  The little tricorne hat perched on the model's head completes the effect.   However, there are also many details that mark the jacket as being from late nineteenth century, including the basque bodice, the leg of mutton sleeves, and the deep revers exposing the high-necked bodice beneath.

The Lammermoor coat was available as a pattern from the Girl's Own Paper:

In our illustration of the "Lammermoor Dress" we show one of the long-waisted jackets such as that unhappy bride is supposed to have been arrayed in; and for our paper pattern we have selected the same, as these long coats or jackets, with their long coat-basques, will unquestionably be worn for some time to come.  They seem becoming, too, to nearly all figures save the very short and stout, and they go well with the plain skirt which is now worn...

The paper pattern for the month, as we have said, is a "Ravenswood", or a "Lammermoor Jacket",  which will be suitable for serge or cloth, and for use as a walking or indoor jacket, to be worn on mild days with a boa or ruff.  There are twelve pieces, and great care must be taken to bone the bodice firmly, and put in the linings evenly and neatly.  The long basque will need lining with silk, or if not, with sateen; and unless in the hands of a good fitter, the home dressmaker may fail in both the ways suggested, unless very careful.

(That last is somewhat discouraging advice for home dressmakers!)

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