Tuesday, June 16, 2020

Coats From Around the World in 1949

If I had to use one word to describe the coats of 1949, that word would be "big".  Whether they swung out from the shoulders or were nipped in at the waist, they were generous in both cut and use of material.  In practical terms this was sensible: there had been some exceptionally cold winters in the 1940s and one would need to make room for one's fashionable New Look clothes underneath one's new coat.  However, I suspect that these coats, with their big collars and cuffs, were also a reaction against the skimpy, rationed garments of the war and immediate postwar years.

Here are four examples, taken from four different countries.

Weldons Catalogue, Autumn-Winter 1949

From Great Britain: Weldons Bargain Pattern:
"Here we think, is a Bargain Pattern that's starred for success.  As smart and practical as a Coat can possibly be; a joy to look at, a joy to wear, and a grand ally when winter winds blow.  There's fashion news in that high, important collar, those wide coachman cuffs—did you realise cuffs were back?—and the big square pockets with their velvet trimmed flaps.  All the velvet trimming, by the way, is optional.  But please do have it; it adds such a lot of luxury!  Colours?  Why, be as bright as the girl on our cover, with black for your contrast; or choose on of the subtle new tone-harmonies such as olive green with bronze."
Butterick Fashion News, October 1949

From America: Butterick pattern 5032:
"That classic favorite... the polo coat has a smartness all its own.  You'll love the details on this new 1949 version... the casual collar, the full boxy lines held taut at the waist by a self belt."

Myer catalogue, Autumn-Winter 1949

From Australia: two coats "American style".  On the left:
"A Flare for Fashion, swirling panel gored, pleated back, two-way collar, set in sleeves, moulded shoulders. Satin twill lined."
On the right:
"Exhilierating Swing Back Regency Dandy caped collar, adjustable sleeve-length cuffs, Moulded shoulders, flaring four-gored back, satin twill lined."

Schöne die Wienerin, No. 22 (1949)

From Austria:
"Sportlicher Herbstmantel aus großkarlertem Wollstoff, in welt ausfallender, einreihiger Hängermachart."
["Sporty autumn coat made of large-scale woollen fabric in a world class, single-breasted hanging style."]

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