Wednesday, June 10, 2020

"Eight Additional Coat Fashions" from Philipsborn (Fall-Winter 1909)

In my copy of Philipsborn's Fall and Winter catalogue for 1909 is a little four-page supplement advertising "Eight Additional Coat Fashions".  I don't know whether this leaflet was added as an afterthought, or whether it was the result of a printing error in the main catalogue.  However it does provide a capsule summary of what was in fashion in women's outerwear at the end of the first decade of the 20th century.

All the coats appear to be cut princess style, with braid and seaming to emphasise their unbroken length.  The s-bend figure, so fashionable earlier in the decade is well and truly gone and the models are depicted as being (somewhat unrealistically) narrow-hipped.  The sleeves in each coat are gathered at the shoulder and narrow at the wrist, but the the gathers aren't full enough to turn them into leg o' mutton sleeves.

"W13—A REMARKABLY HANDSOME BROADCLOTH COAT, SATIN LINED THROUGHOUT... Semi-fitted back has broad graduated plaits with deep inverted vents at either side.  Single breasted front fastens with large jet buttons..."
"W14—ELEGANT... BLACK OR BLUE, SATIN-LINED BROADCLOTH COAT... Has novel plaited effect below hip line consisting of side and inverted plaiting.  Neatly stitched at top forming  scalloped tailored pockets which in turn are fashionably trimmed..."

"W15—LATEST PAULIERAINE" MODEL IN...GRAY SATIN-LINED BROADCLOTH COAT.  The beautiful model pictured here is a copy of one of the latest creations sent to us by our Parisian connoisseur... Tailor-stitched seams ornament front and back of coat full length, forming a graduated panel in back which is relieved at either side with plaits and folds to correspond... Very chic."
"W16—ANOTHER NEW PARISIAN COAT MODEL.  Good quality broadcloth in black, blue, brown or maroon... Is most handsomely and extravagantly ornamented on collar, cuffs, front, sides and back with richest silk cording, strapping and handsome scroll braid ornaments..."

"W17—VERY ELEGANT AND SWAGGER 56-INCH TAN COVERT OR BLACK BROADCLOTH COAT... This garment is most exquisitely tailored and is fashioned with new Dutch collar, tailor stitched and button trimmed..."
"W18—THIS STUNNING, 54-INCH BLACK BROADCLOTH COAT PORTRAYS ONE OF THE SEASON'S NEWEST MODES.  Is made in semi-fitted style with single-breasted front.  Line throughout with finest quality gray satin.  Has beautiful shawl collar inlaid with silk moire..."

"W11 —EXCEEDINGLY SMART 52-INCH BLACK PRESSED CHEVIOT COAT.  Semi-fitted mode, lined to waist with silk Venetian. ... Fastens in single-breasted style with jet buttons. "
"W12—54-INCH ALL WOOL BROADCLOTH, TAILORED IN THIS SEASON'S MOST FASHIONABLE MODE.  The garment pictured here is a most exceptional value and is made of good quality all-wool broadcloth in black, navy blue, maroon, green or brown.  Lined three-quarter length with good quality satin..."

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