Friday, February 3, 2023

200 Years Ago (Ackermann's Repository, February 1823)

 Before the middle of the twentieth century no respectable person would be seen outdoors without some kind of headgear.  This meant that hats and headdresses were as necessary to a complete outfit as shoes—and much more visible.


1. [Top left]  Bolivar hat of black velvet; the brim, narrow and equal width, is continued from the right side about the satin band of the crown, form a double front, which is finished on the left with a small gold tassel...
(Named for the South American freedom fighter Simon Bolivar, the "Bolivar hat" had a broad brim and a cylindrical crown.  While the Bolivar hat was usually worn by men, this version has been adapted for women.)
2. [Top right] Cap of tulle; the crown covered with three satin tulip leaves...
(Caps were worn indoors by married and older single women.  They performed a double function of proclaiming the wearer's status and concealing thinning and/or greying hair.)
3. [Centre] Circassian turban of silver muslin, with a bird of Paradise, beneath which is a rich ostrich feather falling very low on the left side.
(If caps were worn indoors during the day, turbans were worn with formal evening wear.)
4. [Bottom left]  Bonnet composed of Ponceau velvet...  This bonnet is very fashionable in black velvet and satin, with pomegranate-blossoms.
5. [Bottom right]  Bonnet composed of gros de Naples of two colours: the crown, which is round, and rather low, is of lemon colour; the front is of lavender colour, and very full, but confined by four flat straps, which are continued withinside...
(While hats were worn, bonnets were THE most fashionable head wear for women through most of the nineteenth century.  Like all fashions bonnet styles were in constant flux. The ones depicted here are starting to increase in size, culminating with the very LARGE bonnets worn in the late 1820s and early 1830s.)

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