"Bright, Good-Fitting Bathers" (Myer, Spring & Xmas, 1929

Though modest by today's standards, these colourful bathing suits from the Myer catalogue are streamlined and practical.  However, since the lady on the left is wearing a suit made of cashmere, I suspect she wasn't likely to dip it in the sea.

0991—Fine Cashmere.  All-wool BATHING SUIT with plain top and fancy striped skirt.  In assorted colours... Fancy Rubber BATHING CAP.

0992—Gilr's United Style.  All-wool BATHING GOWN: in black, navy and many bright colours.... CAP in smart designs and colours, to tone with gown... COOLIE COATS, in crepe, in floral designs, in bright tonings for maids and children...

Styles of '65: "Fun-In-the-Sun-Clothes" (Flair, January 1965)

1965, and fashion faced in two directions.

On the one hand, Paris was producing some very avant-garde stuff: Saint Laurent designed his "Mondrian" dress, Courreges his "space age" suits and Paco Rabanne his first plastic dress.  Across the Channel in London (yet to be dubbed Swinging London, though it was already swinging) Mary Quant was well established, Biba had opened her first boutique, and John Bates was designing clothes for Diana Rigg in The Avengers.

Meanwhile, in other parts of the world, a more conservative aesthetic prevailed.  Catalogues were filled with pictures of models sporting Chanel-style suits and bouffant dresses, cocktail dresses and beehive hairstyles.  These fashions don't often make the history books, but the majority of women wore them.  Ideas from the cutting edge of fashion (miniskirts!) gradually filtered into the mainstream.

Confusing?  Don't worry.  Contemporaries found it all equally confusing! 

What is happening to Fashion? 

Well may you ask... because lots of exciting things are happening right now, especially in Paris!  Take the trouser-suit for instance... whether you're for or against it, it's going to cause a strong ripple in the local fashion scene this winter... and so will bonnets, crochet sweaters, feather boas, black velvet, jungle-print stockings and nanny-type alligator shoes!  

COVER: The fresh look of mid-summer fashion is eloquently stated by an overblouse of printed Arnel sharkskin, teamed with plain canary bermudas of the same fabric...

Perfect clothes to wear on a beach... as shown here.  Or at a picnic, a barbeque or any other casual outdoor entertainment.

Exhibition: Style & Spirit - The Fashion of Chester Weinberg

 As Covid recedes into the past, it becomes possible to visit exhibitions once again.  And as luck would have it, there was a particularly interesting little fashion exhibition at the David Roche Gallery in Adelaide while I was in town.

Left: Dress (Resort 1971).  Right: Evening Dress (Spring/Summer 1968)

Called, "Style & Sprit: the Fashion of Chester Weinberg",  this exhibition followed the career of a once-prominent designer who fell into obscurity after he died of an AIDS related illness in 1985.  However, before his career was cut short he produced glamorous but wearable designs to dress the rich and fashionable of New York.

"Romance Returns to the Mode" (McCalls, March 1934)

 Merry Christmas, everyone!  And as we count down the hours to Christmas 2024, let's take a look at the evening fashions of 1934.  As you can see, sophistication was the last word in evening styles—though younger women sometimes chose to wear girlish frills instead.  

Incidentally, the fashion illustrations of the day were even more exaggeratedly distorted than fashion illustrations usually are.  While tall, slender models are favoured in most eras, the legs of these models are so long that you would have to reduce their length by a third to approximate the proportions of an ordinary woman.

No. 7714.  This Véra Boréa will take you to dinner and the dance with a romantically modern demeanor.  The skirt falls smoothly to the floor, outlining the contour of the figure on its way.  The sleeves are fluted; the back cut out appealingly. 

No. 7700.  The neckline swathes the throat discreetly, the sleeves taper subtly to a slim wrist, leaving your audience totally unprepared for the cowl that drops breathlessly in back, the godets that trail into a train.  It's a fashion for gala occasions!

Elite Styles, May 1925

 Elite Styles (1897-1929) was a pattern magazine for professional dressmakers, though home dressmakers could also buy their patterns if they thought they had the necessary skills to make them up. 

Not surprisingly, Elite patterns made no concessions to beginners or the less skilled, as shown by the evening dress pictured below.  However, the mixture of satin, lace, beading and flying panels which would have made it difficult to cut and sew, would also have made it a delight on the dance floor.  Imagine how it would have looked in motion, as the wearer stepped out doing one of the energetic dances of 1925!

Fashion lends an attentive ear to the call of exquisite laces.  A costume that lends an air of girlish grace and Parisian chic to the wearer combines sheer silk lace of delicate pattern with soft crȇpe satin ; the bodice has pointed outline at hip, the points being defined with ornamental braid or beading ; short, kimono sleeves ; other interesting details are the pointed collar and scarf, the latter being made of crȇpe satin and trimmed with lace.  The straight foundation skirt is made of crȇpe satin ; gathered lace panels with pointed hemline are posed at front and back, while panels of crȇpe satin appear at the sides.  Fastens at shoulder and under the arm.

"For the Lighter Side of Life" (Delineator, December 1916)

 The First World War was raging in Europe, but fashion still went on its merry way.    

You'll note the new wartime silhouette—wide skirts, now well clear of the ankles, and an absence of tightly laced corsets.  Fashion historians often claim that this more relaxed style was a result of the war itself.  Women doing war work needed clothes that didn't hamper them.  However, looking at this picture it becomes clear that the new styles were also perfect for dancing.  Ragtime had already made its mark, and now these young ladies look ready to foxtrot and one-step their way into the Jazz Age.

From left to right:

The Isles of Greece never produced anything quite so smart and fascinating as design 8832— a dress in Grecian style made for a modern goddess.  The one-piece gown can be drawn in, in Empire fashion; or a lower waistline, if more becoming is equally good style and effective... A dress of satin, veiled with tulle is very beautiful for Winter functions.

Keeping step with Fashions's swiftly revolving wheel is easy work when one chooses such a model as design 8824-8820.  The basque effect in the waist is very pretty and becoming for evening wear.  And the standaway, flyaway look of the new collar is extremely smart and striking.  A slightly raised waistline is always becoming, but a regulation one is also offered.  The soft fulness of the handkerchief overskirts contrasts prettily with the bodice lines of the waist.

When is a dress not a dress?  When it is a smart evening frock (design 8813-8820).  Says that leading lady—Fashion—there is a subtle distinction that gives this model its chief charm.  The girdle, which can be cut in two different outlines at the bottom, gives individuality to the waist.  A sleeve made in cape effect is very unusual and striking... One or two handkerchief overskirts make the skirt...

What We Wore in '74: Hostess Gowns (David Jones, Spring-Summer 1974)

 Hostess gowns.  Worn between the 1930s and the 1970s they were full length gowns for entertaining at home.  Not as formal as full evening dress, these versions from 1974 are fashionably loose and made up in vibrant prints.  The counterculture of the late 1960s has influenced their design—for example, though the catalogue doesn't describe it as such, the dress in the centre of the top picture is clearly a kaftan!

A. An exciting new American print on cool Arnel jersey, styled to a floating A-line empire featuring long front zip, self tie and lots of interest at the back.

B. Glamorous American model copy... the new-look float in breezy Arnel jersey.  All-in-one body and sleeve for a slim, easy fit and featuring contrast trim with ric-rac braid.

C. A fabulous border print and winged cape sleeves make a perfect combination in this flowing design.  Fitted to the waist, with high front neckline and slightly lower back.