Blouses (Miroir Des Modes, Aouet 1924)

 In the 1920s buttoned up, tucked in blouses were Out, and slip-over overblouses were In.  Butterick produced a number of patterns for blouses in 1924, some of which appear in this illustration from Miroir des Modes below.

All these patterns also appeared in various issues of The Delineator in 1924.  I've taken the descriptions in English from The Delineator, though in some cases the magazine published different pattern views than the ones on this page.  4993 and 5085 at the bottom left of the illustration appeared in winter issues of The Delineator and were described with long sleeves.

The "National" Money-Saving Style Book (Spring and Summer 1923)

 For 1923 I'm posting a picture of some jaunty looking summer coats (and one cape) for the younger set.  Flapper fashions were more than just beads and fringes!

Below are the descriptions provided by the National Cloak & Suit Company: 

Ladies' Field Fashions (October 1922)

 I've said this before, but the look we think of as typically "twenties" really only belongs to the last years of the decade.  Here in 1922, however, we have a selection of suits and dresses that show the line in the process of evolving.  

Reading from left to right, No. 1 is carried out in crȇpe marocain, Kolinsky trimmed; No. 2 in duvetyn and skunk opossum; and No. 3 is in kasha.  Duvetyn and nutria express No. 4, and velveteen, No. 5

Interestingly enough, though these models are all numbered (implying that they were available as patterns?) there were no detailed descriptions accompanying the pictures.  The figure second on the left appears to be wearing a standard skirt suit, while the figure on the far right appears to be wearing a suit comprised of a skirt and cape in matching material with a coordinating overblouse.

On current trends, this issue of the Ladies' Field said:

To begin with the all-important matter of line.  Are our waists long or are they to be found in their normal position?  Well, in the vernacular, "some do and some don't."  Some, that is to say, of the new models show normal waist lines, others are long in effect, though not in reality, by means of wide waistbelts.  Others, again, are as long as ever, but do not look so owing to varied arrangements of drapery...

Sleeves are either non-existent or frankly immense.  In some cases capes form them; in others they would be trains if they were not caught up at the wrists...

"The National Money-Saving Style Book" (Spring & Summer 1921)

 The tidy housewife always regards at least two house frocks as necessary garments in her wardrobe, but even the woman that has in the past been indifferent to her appearance in the home while on household duties, favours the loose cool house frock of to-day.  It is easy to slip on, and is certainly not hard to launder. 

"Around the shops", Farmer and Settler, 1 December 1922

 Leaving the realm of high fashion for everyday dress, I've posted a picture of some "house frocks" (also "house dresses") from 1921.  House frocks were mainly worn by housewives and were inexpensive, practical garments for doing chores in. Ideally they were also smart enough to receive visitors in or wear to the local shops.  For heavy, dirty housework an apron or overall would have been worn over the house frock to protect it.

I've copied the descriptions of the dresses from the "National" catalogue below.  Being easy to launder was a selling point, as was the presence of pockets (not nearly as common in more formal garments).

New Idea, Spring 1920

 Happy New Year!

I've been giving some thought as to what I'm going to do with this blog in 2026, and I've decided to try a little experiment.  I'm going to (try to) work my way chronologically, a year each week, through my favourite fashion decades of the twentieth century.  Here, to start with, are some very pretty outfits from Spring 1920.  By the end of the year I hope to get all the way to the 1970s.

So, what was the well dressed woman wearing in 1920?

Peterson's Magazine, December 1859

 For my last post of the year, I give you these fashions from December 1859.

Made in silks and velvet, these garments were clearly out of reach for the majority of women.  The fact that the dress on the right is called a carriage dress implies that not only can the wearer (or her father or husband) afford a carriage, but that it could be spared to take her on social calls around town.

Interestingly, many of the other garments in this magazine are much more practical, geared to the needs of its (presumably) middle-class readership.

FIG. I—WALKING DRESS OF PURPLE SILK—Cloak of black velvet.  The under part is made in the sacque shape, with a very full skirt and sleeves; the upper part of the cloak is in a full pelerine, of nearly the same shape in front that it is behind.  It is trimmed with guipure lace and heavy fringe.  Bonnet of purple velvet, ornamented with black lace, and black and purple plumes.

FIG II—CARRIAGE DRESS OF FAWN COLORED SILK—The skirt is trimmed with the flounces, the lower one much deeper than the four above it.  Body high to the throat, with a round waist, confined by a belt of the same material as the dress.  The sleeves are trimmed with five ruffles, the lower one deeper than the other four.  This very beautiful dress is ornamented on the skirt, body and sleeves with a binding of flame-colored silk.  Bonnet of white silk, with a round face, and trimmed with black and flame-colored plumes, and black end flame-colored ribbon.

"Pin-Me-Up Frocks by Mary Miller" (Modern Priscilla, November 1925)

 "Pin-me-up" frocks!  In 1925 Modern Priscilla offered these two evening dresses to its readers: one for a matron (on the right) and one for her debutante daughter (on the left).

From the description I gather Modern Priscilla provided everything: from the lengths of fabric already cut out to the trimmings.  All that remained was sewing up the seams.  Which sounds like... ready made with extra steps?

I've quoted the text from the magazine in full, because it's so informative.