All That Glitters (PASSAP International, 1970)

 PASSAP was a high quality (engineered in Switzerland!) double bedded knitting machine.  Apparently a bit harder to learn than an ordinary knitting machine, it was famed for the different kinds of stiches and effects it could produce.  In 1970, the year this booklet was published, PASSAP's top model was the Duomatic 80—operated by punch cards!

A knitting machine can't function without patterns, so twice a year PASSAP issued a magazine containing its latest styles.  The cover of this issue features a knitted pantsuit suitable for casual entertaining: very modern and suitable for making up in the latest synthetic yarns.

Smart trouser-suit for ladies

Size: to fit a 34" bust approx.

Materials: 19 oz. brilliant synthetic (or Lurex) yarn, waist elastic, 1 buckle for belt if desired

Pattern: The complete trouser-suit in stocking stitch, purl side outwards.

Crimes in Crochet V (McCall's Needlework and Crafts, Spring-Summer 1972)

 I haven't done one of these in ages.  The pictures really speak for themselves, so let's just say that this is what happened when the "do it yourself" and the "do your own thing" crazes of the late sixties were combined.

Take this little number.  The summer dress in linen-orlon is OK, but the designer has paired it with a beanie.  Wouldn't a sunhat make more sense?

These two young ladies look as if they've cut up granny's table mats to convert into tabards.  Stylish, they are not.

... And these two ladies look as if they've been cutting up her bedding!  

These shorts are giving me a rash just looking at them!

Still more granny squares, outlining this—ahem!—interesting little evening creation.  I hope to God that anyone who made this little number also wore something underneath it.  Unless she was going to one of those swinging "key parties" we were told were the in thing in the 1970s!

(A number of other fashion disasters from this magazine—yes, this very issue—were featured in The Museum of Kitschy Stitches by Stitchy McYarnpants.)

Going to All Lengths (Woman's Day August 1970)

In the 1950s, Paris dictated skirt lengths.  An inch or two either way decided whether your clothes were "In" or "Out".  In the 1960s the system came under stress, as the young rushed to wear shorter and shorter skirts and the older lagged behind.  By 1970, the system fell apart altogether, as designers tried to impose longer ("midi") skirts and many women just didn't want them.

What was a girl to do?  Well, (American) Woman's Day had some suggestions (in the form of Simplicity patterns) for fashionable skirts in various styles and lengths.  These ranged from a modest miniskirt on the left, to the longer but slit midi-skirt on the right which allowed you to still flash a bit of leg.

From left to right: 

THE SHORTEST ZIP in bold acrylic plaid.  Simplicity pattern 8739... Garland's clinging pumpkin sweater...
SO LONG KNEES—hello pleats, in wool flannel, newly-colored teal.  Simplicity patter 8842... Lady Arrow's frontier shirt...

THE WRAPPED SLASH in purple tweed-printed corduroy.  Simplicity pattern 8749... Over a cat-lady body stocking, by Irene for the McCallum Boutique...

THE BUTTONED SLASH in native-striped washable wool.  Simplicity pattern 8925... With Lady Arrow tab shirt... Also divine over one of your mini-dresses, giving you a split-level costume, another new look.

And if you were going out in your new skirts, you needed something to wear over them.  Woman's Day suggested coats, cardigans, capelets and capes you could buy.  From left to right:

SPONGE-IT-CLEAN TOPPER, in canvas, wipes clean with a damp sponge.  By Gangsters by Valstar of London...

STRING-BEAN CARDIGAN in chenille knit hs the elongated good looks just right for longer skirts.  By Garland...

KNITTED CAPELET with buttons down the front and swaying fringe is updated Victoriana for boutique fanciers.  By Garland...

PONCHO CAPE in henna-colored loden cloth is a versatile coordinate, has white topstitching.  By White Stag...

Exhibition: Style & Spirit - The Fashion of Chester Weinberg

 As Covid recedes into the past, it becomes possible to visit exhibitions once again.  And as luck would have it, there was a particularly interesting little fashion exhibition at the David Roche Gallery in Adelaide while I was in town.

Left: Dress (Resort 1971).  Right: Evening Dress (Spring/Summer 1968)

Called, "Style & Sprit: the Fashion of Chester Weinberg",  this exhibition followed the career of a once-prominent designer who fell into obscurity after he died of an AIDS related illness in 1985.  However, before his career was cut short he produced glamorous but wearable designs to dress the rich and fashionable of New York.

What We Wore in '74: Hostess Gowns (David Jones, Spring-Summer 1974)

 Hostess gowns.  Worn between the 1930s and the 1970s they were full length gowns for entertaining at home.  Not as formal as full evening dress, these versions from 1974 are fashionably loose and made up in vibrant prints.  The counterculture of the late 1960s has influenced their design—for example, though the catalogue doesn't describe it as such, the dress in the centre of the top picture is clearly a kaftan!

A. An exciting new American print on cool Arnel jersey, styled to a floating A-line empire featuring long front zip, self tie and lots of interest at the back.

B. Glamorous American model copy... the new-look float in breezy Arnel jersey.  All-in-one body and sleeve for a slim, easy fit and featuring contrast trim with ric-rac braid.

C. A fabulous border print and winged cape sleeves make a perfect combination in this flowing design.  Fitted to the waist, with high front neckline and slightly lower back.

What We Wore in '74: Blouses (Simplicity Pattern Book, Spring 1974)

 I spent a lot of time trying to decide what to post in my second-to-last look at the styles of 1974.  In the end I plumped for blouses: a fashion staple in every decade since the 1890s.  Of course these examples come with that special 1970s flair.

Figures 1 and 2 are wrap blouses with a v-shaped neckline and ties fastening at the back.  Versions 3 and 4 are top-stitched blouses with a front slash opening collar.

Pattern 6192 was designed to be made in STRETCH knits only and fasted by a back zip.  Version 1 has long, set-in sleeves, while version 2 is designed with kimono sleeves gathered at the wrist.

If I had to say what these blouses had in common, is that they all skim their wearers' youthfully liberated figures: a very mid-seventies look!

What We Wore in '74: Polyester Double Knits (JCPenney, Spring and Summer 1974)

 Mostly it's the styles that define an era, but sometimes the material they're made of is just as important.  What muslin was to the Regency and "art silk" to the 1920s, polyester double-knit was to the 1970s.  It was stretchy and easy-care—hence it's popularity—but it was also sticky and smelly, unbreathable and uncomfortable.  It went out of fashion after a few years, but meanwhile the shops and mail-order catalogues were filled with a dazzling array of polyester garments.  Like, for example, this selection from JCPenney.

At left: Tailored shirt-style body suit (in polyester double-knit), long sleeveless vest (in polyester double knit), knitted check pants (in polyester double-knit).  Centre: Short sleeve tunic top in polyester double knit.  Kick-pleated pants in polyester double-knit.  Right: Tunic top in 2 sleeves length in polyester double-knit.  Knitted pattern pants, in polyester double-knit.

Groovy Styles in Simplicity Patterns (1960s-1970s)

 I had something completely different lined up for this week—then I stumbled across someone selling vintage patterns out of an old plastic bag at a market stall.  Clearly it was a Sign, and who am I to pass up blog material when it presents itself to me?  It looks like the original owner of the patterns was a fashion-forward young woman, eager to keep up with the latest trends.

First, from 1966:

1966

... Blouses, with a choice of cowl- or turtleneck, either long-sleeved or sleeveless.  The blouses were fastened by a zip up the back.

What We Wore in '74: Hats (David Jones, Spring and Summer 1974)

 Though hats had ceased being everyday wear by the 1970s, they were still available for those who wanted to wear them for a special occasion—at the races, perhaps, or at a wedding, or just adding a final touch to a trendy outfit.  

David Jones, Spring-Summer 1974

A: Be a shady lady in this lacy big brimmed beauty from the East.  Fun on any summer outing. 

B: Pack up your troubles with our packable floppy brim hat from Italy.  Comes up smooth and unruffled every time.

C: The snappy cap for sporty new summer looks.  With a gored crown and small visor.  In navy or red denim.

D: Import scarf hat for cool, collected casual wear.  Spun check cotton, with padded front, elastic back for perfect fit.

E: Romantic Italian natural straw, sporting a bunch of ripe red cherries.

F: A hot day special!  Medium brimmed cotton with gore crown.

Seventies nostalgia is very evident in some of these hats.  The deep crowns and shady brims of hats A, B and E recall the fashions of the late 1920s and early 1930s.

What We Wore in '74: Knitwear (Myer, Winter? 1974)

 Knitted outerwear has been popular since the early years of the twentieth century.  Fashionable styles vary, of course.  This selection from the Myer catalogue of winter 1974 is classic in inspiration, harking back to the interwar years.  The garments are slim and fitted, but not too tight, and the colours favoured are mostly natural or earth-toned.  Ribs and cables are popular, as are contrasting trims around necklines and hems.

As Myer was a relatively upmarket department store, all these knits are made of pure wool.  A less expensive store would have sold similar fashions made of artificial fibres.

PURE WOOL LONG LINES SHAPE YOU — warm knits styled with fine ribs, skinny stripes.  Wear with pants, skirts, all great colours.
A. Notice the interesting collar.  Cream/navy/tan, navy/tan/royal/cream, cream/burgundy/bottle.
B.  The cute cardigan, finely ribbed to flatter.  Cream/navy/tan, navy/tan/cream, brown/royal/cream, cream/burgundy/bottle.
C.  The sweater with contrast trim again, subtle, stunning.  Cream/navy/brown, navy/tan/cream, brown/royal/cream.

THREE CHEERS FOR WOOL — in high spirited colours — team with skirts and pants for winter '74.
A. The shawl collar is back.  Notice the baby cable jacquard front.  Snug fitting.  Red, bottle, natural, brown.
B.  The crew is high, textures play a big role in '74.  Colours more vibrant — red, brown, magnolia.
C.  Double role neckline, the fine rib flatters your shape.  Warm red, brown, magnolia, bottle.

WOOL'S A WINNER — you're a great success.  Vibrant colours livened by ribbing — contrast trims — all part of the great looks for '74.
A.  Knife rib polo, trimmed dashing detail.  Superb fit — shows your shape.  Fabulous brown, red, emerald, magnolia.
B.  Shaped long-line jacket look.  Flat rib flatters.  Heartwarming colours of red, brown, emerald, magnolia.
C.  Slade's crossover V-neck classic.  Triple rib shows your shape.  Brown, red, emerald, magnolia. — stunning.

What We Wore in '74: Brushed Nylon Nightwear (David Jones, Autumn and Winter 1974)

 Anyone who lived through the 1970s probably experienced it: brushed nylon nightwear.  The advertisements told us it was soft (it was) it was warm (it was) and it was light-weight (it was).  What they didn't tell us was how much static electricity it generated.  Rolling over in bed was enough to create a small storm of crackles and sparks.

Until manufacturers worked out that people didn't enjoy sleeping in nightwear that lit up like Dr. Frankenstein's laboratory, designers created brushed nylon nightwear in every style and for every age group.  Here are a couple of "romantic" and a couple of "fun" examples from a David Jones catalogue of 1974. 

Norman Hartnell luxury

Presenting a superb range of leisure and night wear designed by the Royal Couturier himself, Norman Hartnell.  Sheer romantic glamour for your leisure hours at prices that are very affordable.

B. Utterly luxurious long nightgown to wear when you want to look and feel your most beautiful.  In soft, looped brushed nylon with glamour trims of lace and deep button opening: also the waistline at the back for perfect fitting.

C. Generous raglan sleeves are the feature  of this long gown tailored in luxury-look looped brushed nylon.  The waist is shirred and trimmed with fancy lace for extra glamour.  All this beauty is fully washable and so easy-care in feminine colours...

What We Wore in '74: Coats (Myer, Winter? 1974)

 The fashions of the 1970s often inspire mockery (I've made my share of jokes) but these coats are classics. I'd happily wear any of them today.

WOOL WOVEN AND WARM — Lean racy lines, accent on camel.  Trimmed and terrific.  All cut to really swing.

A. Donegal tweed, belted, detailed.  A go-anywhere style in winter's fabulous camel, black brown, green and red. 8 to 16. $60

B. Classic over pants — elegant, comfortable.  Easy-tie belt.  Saddle stitching features.  In camel only. 8 to 18. $60

C. Camel again, flattering double breasted, half-belt back.  Notice the superb cut.  Sizes 8 to 18.  $60.

ALL OURS ALONE BY DOMINEX

What We Wore in '74: Pantsuits (Lana Lobell, Fall 1974)

 If blue denim jeans were the casual wear chosen by young people, polyester pantsuits were the garments of choice for slightly older women.  Though some venues still insisted on women wearing skirts, pants were becoming acceptable in more and more situations.

DRESSES are out, pantsuits are in at the White House, as the Arab oil embargo accomplished what Women's Lib could not.

To conserve fuel, temperatures at the White House, along with other federal buildings, have been lowered to 20 deg. C., so—President Nixon's expressed disdained of women in pants notwithstanding—the dress-up rule has been changed.

The Australian Women's Weekly, 2 January 1974 

NEWEST LOOKS ON TWO LEGS!

1. DOUBLE DOTS PEEK OUT on the cuffs of a solidtone jacket and from a whole shell of them underneath.  Sleeveless shell returns the favor with a sold-color neckline.  Jacket ties with a self belt in front; flare-leg pants pull on with elastic waist.  All polyester doubleknit.

2.  PAJAMA SET pairs a peplum top that ties in front over wide-legged pants that hang loose from an elastic waist... it's today's newest way to dress up!  Fantastically colorful print on a soft matte jersey of acetate-nylon washes beautifully by hand.

What We Wore in '74: Denim Jeans (Winns, Autumn-Winter 1974)

When I wake up in the morning light
I pull on my jeans and I feel all right
I pull my blue jeans on
I pull my old blue jeans on (cha, cha)

David Dundas released this song in 1976, but it's just as appropriate for 1974 (or for that matter, 1978).  For the young, the 1970s was truly the Age of  (Blue) Denim. 

D. Wide denim jeans with banded top, loops, contrast stitching piping on side seams, back-yoke and slanted pockets.  Comes in navy.

B. A splash of embroidery on brushed denim jeans, give a whole new look.  Fly front, slotted waistline, finish the pants line.

In 1974, fashionably cut jeans were relatively high in the waist, fitting tightly from the buttocks to the knees, and from the knees down, flared.  Ideally they were somewhat faded.  Teens and twenty-somethings whose new jeans weren't tight or faded enough often took matters into their own hands and "customised" them by wearing them in the bath until they shrank to fit!

What We Wore in '74: Dresses (Simplicity Pattern Book, Spring 1974)

 Dresses are a staple in women's wardrobes in any era, but each era has its own fashion in dresses.  

The mid-seventies was very much an "in-between" era.  The best word I can use to describe the dresses of 1974 is "moderate": not as short and skimpy as the dresses of the late 1960s and early 1970s, and not as long and baggy as the styles of the late 1970s.  Judging by the pattern illustrations below, hems hovered around or just above the knees, skirts had a slight A-line flare to them, and collars were often used as decorative details.

Misses' Dress

Misses' and Women's Dress in Two Lengths

Misses' Short Dress and Two-Piece Short Dress

Misses' One-Piece Short Dress or Short Two-Piece Dress With Detachable Collar and Cuffs

Misses' Dress

What We Wore in '74: Platforms and Wedges (David Jones, Spring and Summer 1974)

 If you wanted to wear trendy footwear in 1974, platform soles and/or wedge heels were a must.   The photographs below show some fashionable sandals from the summer David Jones catalogue.  Cork and rope seem to have been popular materials for the soles.

Kick up your heels!  The new Miss Jones collection for spring and summer has arrived!  Smacking of the sea with nautical corks and comfy wedges, strappy uppers and breezy open toes.

Sandler have the summer sandal scene all sewn up.  Bright colours that outshine the sun, raised up on fun-loving platforms; a look that's totally young and carefree.

Shoes are one of the most important considerations in your summer wardrobe.  they must be ultra-cool (you know how uncomfortable hot feet are!) yet they must be able to stand up to the rugged wear of summer.

People who remember the era tell me that these shoes were very noisy on uncarpeted floors!  By the end of the decade, however, bulky platforms were "out" and fashion had swung to the opposite extreme, with strappy stilettos being the footwear of choice.

What We Wore In '74: Beachwear (David Jones, Spring and Summer 1974)

 This year I'm going to do a series of posts looking back fifty years to the styles of 1974, an era which seems at once strangely modern and a very long time ago.    And since it's now the Australian summer, what better place to start than looking at what we wore at the beach?

F: You'll have it all wrapped up in this nifty beach wrap.  Drop shoulder style makes for comfort and of course it's styled in Bri-Nylon—what else?

G: Itsy bitsy, teeny weeny bikini.  A little nothing to turn heads on the beach this season.  Elasticised under the bust and back strap.  Fibre filled bra to give shape while still looking natural.  Bri-Nylon.

A: Handy chenille cover-up...

B: Comfortable hip-length cover-up...

C: Cool bias stripes on jersey...

D: Snappy shift to match bikini...

E: Ada jersey bikini.  Fibre filled bra, 3" side brief.  Fully lined...

F: Long-singlet shift in carefree cotton/nylon towelling.  Crisp stripes on white with flattering neckline and silver ring trim.

In spite of the number of "cover-ups" for sale, 1974 was the heyday of the deep, dark, fashionable tan.

Bikinis are front and centre in this catalogue, though a few one-piece swimsuits lurk around the edges.  You'll notice that there are no "string bikinis" for sale.  They had just been introduced in 1974 and were presumably still so new that David Jones didn't have time to include them in their catalogue.  However, The Australian Women's Weekly had things covered (or not so covered), with a pattern for a string bikini included in it's October 30 issue.

Christmas Countdown (Rendezvous de la Mode, Plein Hiver 1973)

 And so we reach the end of our Christmas countdown.   Merry Christmas, everyone!

Lest we think that the 1970s were all polyester pantsuits and denim jeans, here is an evening dress in the grand manner from 1973. It was made by Detlev Albers in Berlin. 

DETLEV ALBERS, BERLIN

Distinguished evening dress with long fringed shawl made of pure silk.

Crimes In Crochet, IV: Fashion Knits 71

 I had something quite different lined up for this week, then I stumbled upon this little gem.  Yes, it's time again to look at the evil that can be wrought by a crochet hook.

The idea behind a lot of these styles appears to be "why wait for the moths to eat holes in your clothes when you can do it yourself?"  

The Fringe of Fashion

Our fashion scene opens with a dashing little crochet vest to wear in many ways.  Crocheted in shimmering white, we dressed it romantically in a gay peasant mood.

Pretty In Pastel

Fine crochet makes this graceful blouse.  Lace patterning in the delicate texture of 2-ply, with full sleeves, demure cuffs and collar, and tiny pearl buttons to add a delightfully feminine finishing touch.

"Demure", except you can see the model's underwear through it.

Nothing is better for lounging by the pool than a bright orange poncho crocheted in an unbreathable synthetic yarn.*

Crochet Cover-up Looks

Seen at the Yacht Club in these striking crochet cover-ups for after swim or sailing.  Brilliant orange for the gaily fringed poncho, or apricot striped with white for the jaunty cardigan-tunic.

 (*I checked.  The poncho is made in Courtelle.)

And lastly, what would a 70s fashion spread be without a crocheted pants suit?  This one is aerated to catch those summer breezes.

The Crochet Trend for Trouser Suits

Two of fashion's top moods — the trouser suit and crochet combine in this striking outfit to turn all heads on the casual scene.  Easy-to-wear tunic top has a cord tie and pretty picot edges match the trousers.

Being a product of the 1970s. this magazine also has some quite—ahem!—interesting knitting patterns as well.  But that will be a subject for another post...

His and Hers (Avon Catalog, Holiday 1976)

 Did you know that Avon sells clothes as well as makeup?  Me neither—until I found this Avon clothes catalogue from the 1976 Holiday season.

As in many of the catalogues of this era, Avon has a section for His and Hers Fashions, illustrated by photographs of couples wearing matching outfits.  Well, it's true that nothing says True Love more than dressing like your honey... and I admit I was only a kid in the seventies, but I never saw a couple dressed like this in reality.   "His and Hers" was probably a marketing ploy, though the clothes were real enough.

To start we have a couple dressed in "The 20th-Century Shirt"

...a screen-print futuristic fashion, uniquely engineered to flatter every size.... Two different contemporary scenes front and back in 100% Enkalure® nylon that's cool and comfortable to wear

with "Natural Colored Prewash Canvas Jeans with Braided Belt".

Our next couple are hanging out in "His or Her Striped Shirt[s]" and "His and Her Dress-Up Jeans" of "polyester and cotton... special brushed sateen finish... The legs are fashionably flared".

  

Care for a spot of archery?  This couple have decided to hit the target wearing matching knit shirts with denim trim and "His and Her Striper Jeans"

...in brushed cotton denim.  Side panels with narrow strips that are worked horizontally inside the panels.  Results?  A slender silhouette, a great fashion maker.  Match them with our his/hers denim trimmed shirts and you've got an unbeatable "boutique" look outfit.

"Performance Minded His and Her Separates" for riding—or at least petting a horse.  This couple is wearing "British Army Shirt[s]" in cotton and polyester with shoulder and sleeve epaulets.  Below they are wearing "His and Her Wrangler® Jeans" with straight legs in 100% cotton, indigo dyed, prewashed denim.  Lastly, their boots are "His and Hers Genuine Leather Boots by Dingo".

Interestingly, "She" is wearing a turtleneck underneath her British Army Shirt, while "He" has his undone to reveal his manly chest hair and his 1970s gold medallion!