"The Winter Moonlight" (Peterson's Magazine January 1878)

Peterson's Magazine used to copy fashion plates from French magazines.  By the 1870s it seems that they were taking figures from several plates and combining them into one image.  The end result was  often an odd combination of costumes (a model wearing a ball dress standing next to one in sportswear, for example).  Happily that is avoided in this image of women mostly in evening dress.  From left to right:

• Dinner dress in peach-colored silk
• Dinner dress in green silk, with a white cashmere dolman
• Evening dress in blue silk for a young lady
• Evening dress of white tulle over white silk
• Reception dress of black silk.

Of these, only the last is suitable for (formal) day wear.

'Going Swimming' (Stitchcraft, June 1949)

As I said in my previous post, "knit-your-own" swimsuits were always a possibility for the beach-goers of the 1930s and 1940s.  Here is a pattern from Stitchcraft which promises to not stretch out of shape.

I've scanned the whole pattern in 300 dpi, so it should be possible for keen knitters out there to print it off.  Since there are many more types of yarn available to knitters in 2020 than in 1949, it would be theoretically possible for someone to experiment by making this costume in synthetic fibres.  On the other hand, one could make it up in wool for that full 1940s experience.

In either case, happy knitting to anybody who would like to try it!

National Bellas Hess Midsummer Sale Catalog (1936)

These swimsuits look almost modern, and their wearers almost liberated—but oh dear, look at the materials they're made off!  All these costumes are made of knitted wool which was heavy, sagged when wet and took ages to dry.

Help was at hand, though, because the 1930s was the decade that saw the introduction of "lastex".  Lastex was an elastic fibre that was made with a core of rubber surrounded by wool, silk, cotton or rayon.  It was perfect for girdles and bras—and of course, swimsuits.  It made possible the sleek "glamour" swimming costumes worn by the pinups of the forties and fifties.

Meanwhile, "all wool" outfits like these continued to be made and worn into the early fifties.  Lastex costumes were not cheap, war interfered with production, and if all else failed it was still possible for a hopeful beach-goer to find a pattern and knit her own swimsuit to order.

Beachwear from "Wakes" Catalogue, Spring-Summer 1947

Apart from bushfires, there's nothing as typical of an Australian summer as a day at the beach.  After the Second World War ended people had time to play again—and "Wakes" marketed this boldly printed outfit to women wanting to enjoy sun, surf and sand.

HOLIDAY WEEKEND WARDROBE IN ONE.  In an exclusive-to-Wakes border printed, tub-fast cotton linene.  The long wear will amaze you as much as the tiny price. Big border shells, shrink to periwinkle size at waist.  Button-on easy-to-iron coat dress as smart as its classic simplicity.  Sun-suit features faultless shorts, knot-in-front bare midriff blousette.

 Though the war was over, rationing still continued (and would continue until 1948) in Australia.  This outfit cost a total of 23 ration coupons—as well as 49 shillings and sixpence in money.

"Playsuits" in Florida Fashions (1957)

Fifties fashions were mostly very adult and formal.  On the other hand, leisurewear could sometimes be downright childish—as, for example, these "playsuits" which appear to be grown-up versions of rompers.  (Note, however, how they both came with their own wraparound skirts for when their wearers wanted to cover up and be adults again!)

DAISY DARLIN'... gay appliqued daisies on cuffed bodice and down the button-front skirt.  1-piece playsuit has two pockets, self-belt, side zipper.  Drip-dry—Little or no-iron cotton.

CALYPSO CHARMER... it's the new rage!  Be the first to wear it in your town!  "Banana" button skirt has solid color waist-cinch cummerbund to match gay "calypso" print.  1-piece playsuit has cool halter-back, smart cuffed leg.  Self belt.  Washable silky-fine cotton.

How To Make ... A Bubble Beach Suit (Vanity Fair, June 1959)

After the swim comes the cover-up to be worn on the beach.  Vanity Fair published this pattern for a "Bubble BEACH SUIT Ahead of the swim—and perfect to relax in after one" (to fit bust sizes 32 in.-36 in). in 1959.  My readers who enjoy vintage sewing might like to try it, so I've reproduced the pattern and the instructions below.

Materials: 1³/₈ yds. 36 in. wide sailcloth ... matching and contrasting Sylko; 18 in. zip; 1 yd. thick cotton cord;; ½ yd. elastic; 2 yds. matching bias binding.

Scale of Diagram: 1 square = 1 sq. inch.

Seam allowance: ½ inch.  Facings allowed at back and front neck (where shaded in diagram).

INSTRUCTIONS: Make paper pattern following diagram.  Open out fabric flat and fold in half across width (right sides together), keeping selvedges at top and lower edges.  Place Centre Back to fold edge and Centre Front (reverse way up) to the raw edges, as shown in diagram.  Stitch centre front seam from lower edge up to first notch A, press seam open.  Stitch bust darts as far as point B, press turnings downwards.  Place Fronts to Back at shoulders, side seams and crutch, matching all notches and stitch.  Press these seams open.  Turn in front and back neck facings and ½ in. along front edges.  Make two rows of stitching, using contrasting Sylko and a large stitch.  Stitch along the edge and then ¼ in. away around back of neck, down front edges and continuing along line of seam A to crutch.  Bind armholes and legs with bias binding and stitch round armholes for neck and front edges.  Insert 9 in. of elastic in each leg, commencing elastic 6½ in. away from side seams for front leg and continuing round to within 8 in. of side seams for back leg.  Insert zip by hand at front edges as far as notch A, so that zip is covered and stitches are hidden in second line of stitching.  Mark centre of cord and attach this point to tab of zip.

 

For people used to metric measurements and not too sure of how that translates into inches and yards: 1 inch is approximately 2.5 centimetres long, and a yard translates to roughly 90 centimetres.

Good luck and happy sewing!

To the Beach! (Spiegel Catalog, Spring-Summer 1965)

Shades of "Gidget"!  These beach fashions from Spiegel seem cute rather than sexy... and the fact that most of them have built-in bras indicates that as beachwear goes, these are fairly structured garments.

split level Soak up the sun in a smashing 2-piecer... sure to capture admiring glances!  Curve-clinging stretch nylon knit says such pretty things about your figure.  Smooth fitting halter top; maillot leg shorts.  Multi-print.  

blouson beaut  Create a sensation in this dramatic duet!  Laminated acetate tricot top has built-in bra... skims smoothly of separate stretch nylon maillot leg shorts.

sun fun  Check a sweet, yet saucy bikni... get ready for a summer of fun! Ruffle-pretty gingham halter and shorts are completely lined.  Halter straps detachable.  Pink or turquoise checks.

sea sprite  Vivid flower-sprinkled blouson top of fluid Arnel triacetate jersey shirred  to curve-hugging stretch nylon knit shorts.  Built-in bra; spaghetti straps included.  Brown multi-print.

rib tickler  Gay-as-a-giggle blouson top to wear high or low... looks great either way!  Shape-keeping laminated acetate tricot top has built in bra; stretch nylon knit boy shorts.  Blue or black.

David Jones Catalogue, Spring-Summer 1977

1977! Disco was still king (though punk had made its debut, with the Sex Pistols' number "God Save the Queen" upsetting Establishment Britain).  Hits that year included "Dancing Queen" by Abba, and "Hotel California" by the Eagles. In cinemas the hits of the year were Star Wars and Saturday Night Fever (both of whose soundtracks made it into the charts).

In the fashion world Zandra Rhodes showed her "punk collection", Yves Saint Laurent sent puffed sleeves and "bustles" down the catwalk, and Diane Keaton wore layered clothes by Ralph Lauren in the film Annie Hall.

And in Australia the upmarket department store "David Jones" released this catalogue for its country customers.  These were clothes for prosperous middle class women who couldn't afford haute couture and were not definitely not interested in avant garde fashion.

A.  Maglia's little-nothing maillot has a totally natural braline with halter neck and tiny staps that cross at back.  Choose pink or French blue, in hand-washable nylon/lycra that hugs your curves but beautifully.  $30.

B. Brief bikini for any age figure that can take it.  Maglia's 2.5 cm. side briefs, classic halter neck with natural bra, gilt front clasp.  Nylon/Lycra hand-washable and quick-drying, in royal pink/pale blue/yellow broken stripes, as illustrated.  Sensational on sleek bodies.  $28.

C.  Miltex maillot is young-styled and low-backed, and super-stunning.  Sleek stretch nylon moulds your figure from the natural braline down.  Pick jade green or black with wooden beads at strapline.  $25.

A. When is a sundress not really a sundress?  When it's a fetching twosome that can divide to multiply your wardrobe.  Here, a four-gored, slightly flared skirt with back zip, and a matching top border printed, on a fine halter.  You just know the back is low and sun-catching.  Poly-cotton in red/white, green/white.  Summer's newest look  Only $20.

B.  Summer's prettiest flounced skirt comes with its own softly contoured top, elasticated at the waist, and haltered on its own gilt choker.  Wow.  Washable polyester-cotton in white and natural with the finest contrast edging.  Fashion at $34.

C.  Impossible not to look devastating in this wrap-around skirt all covered in tiny flowers and topped to match.  Gilt choker holds halter easily.  Elastic waist.  Blue, black, poly-cotton.  $18.

A.  Striking one-shoulder top is cotton/polyester with 3 rows of gold braid.  White, red, navy black.  Easycare. Just $8.99.

B.  Classic short with stiffened belt and neat buckle.  Front zip.  Easy poly/viscose.  In white, navy with contrast trim.  $11.

C.  Stripes plus a drawstring waist, split front pocket, makes this the smash hit of summer.  Ocean or emerald cotton.  At $10.99.

D.  New look shorts with old-fashioned price.  Poly-cotton in white/green, navy/white, red/white.  Elasticised waist. $11.

E.  A strapless top is a 'must' this summer.  Cotton with gold 'Hang Ten' motif.  White, read, emerald, yellow, navy, black.  $5.99.

F.  Classic shorts go pin-striped with fitted waist, flat zip front.  Easy poly/viscose in white with black, red, navy or green.  $8.

A.  Delta adds a tie you can wear at neck or waist with this elegant polyester blouse.  Blue, green, gold; narrow cuffs.  Value, $25.

B. Classic polyester linen pants have stitched band.  Mini-iron.  Nat, navy.  $28.

C.  Delta's peasant blouse for day or evening.  Green, natural, brown, navy washable polyester with tie neck, full sleeves.  $24.

D.  Linen-look skirt is poly-viscose, hand washable in natural, navy, green.  Delta tailors it beautifully, inside and out.  $30.

E.  Patchwork print makes the jazziest summer shirt in 100% cotton: blue, red, brown.  Delta says, wear it in or out.  Only $20.

F.  Delta's slim-leg pants in textured poly.  Red, white, blue.  Value, $28.50.

A: Breeze through summer's casual hours (relaxing at home, by the pool, or entertaining) looking like a million dollars in the easy, elegant Arnel jersey caftan.  Hand-washable.  $30.

B: Here's a real figure flatterer, from its square cut neck to wide elbow length raglan sleeves, easy caftan cut.  Arnel jersey that's hand washable, in the prettiest print  $30.

A. Cool cotton, and beautifully collected with mitred stripes, back zip opening.  Navy/red/green or blue/lilac/pink.  Great at $14.

B.  You'd expect a sundress with all the shaping detail of this beauty to be quite costly.  Not a bit.  It's pure cotton, comes in green/navy, red/navy, with back zip opening, buttons.  At $14.

C.  Beat the heat with a patchwork float of a dress in fine cotton: red/navy, green/navy.  Square neck, square armholes.  Fashion at $14.

A. It's easy to look cool, unfussed on the hottest day in an Arnel jersey float.  This one is wide cut with large patch pockets, deep reverse collar.  Pink or blue.  Washable.  Only $20.

B. Splashy flowers on blue (or green) Arnel jersey add to the cool summery mood of this wide necked float.  It's gathered on string straps, frilled at the hem.  A pool-party winner.  $20.

C.  Cap sleeves, and a straight up-and-down line make this Arnel jersey float a flatterer on any figure.  Slit neckline is on a deep V insert.  Side pockets.  Choose lilac or pink.  At $20.

A.  The classic shirtdress goes two-piece for double elegance.  Poly/cotton voile with sunray pleated skirt, button-through top.  Cream with blue or pink flowers.  A steal at $29.

B.  The shirtmaker suit in plain jersey for day or evening.  Choose magnolia, peppermint or eggshell blue.  For all its costly look it's washable, easy-care.  A special buy, $29.

C. Beat the heat and look fresh and smart in this cool, washable, crease-resistant two-piecer, with patch pockets, gored skirt, tie belt.  Red, green, blue with white polyester.  $29.

 

 A. For women sized 14-24—flattering zip front dress with border print, self-tailored belt.  Easy-care polyester in red, navy.  Just $39.

B. Big girl flatterer has round neck, detailed stitching, back zip opening, can be worn with or without tie belt.  Blue, red poly.  $39.

C. Ever-popular stripes are slimming when mitred.  Uncut waist can be worn without tie belt.  Navy/white, brown/white, polyester.  $39.

D. Polyester jersey in monotone print is easy, attractive on all figures.  Pink or navy, both with white.  A fine fashion buy at $39.

Happy New Year! Butterick Quarterly (Spring 1920)

Happy New Year everybody!  Since we're starting a new decade as well as a new year today, I thought I'd take a look at what women were wearing a hundred years ago at the beginning of the 1920s.

 

A quick glance is sufficient to see that it was a forward looking era—look how far fashion had come since 1910!  Skirts are now calf length, and dresses are much easier fitting and less elaborate than they were a decade earlier.  However the dropped waistline of the 1920s is not yet apparent, and look at the way these fashions emphasise the hips with panels, pockets and drapery!  It looks most peculiar to modern eyes, but you never know—since styles tend to repeat, we may yet see something like this again.