Chicago Mail Order, Fall and Winter 1931-32

 The social historian in me can't help noticing that nearly half (if not more) of the garments listed in this catalogue are advertised as reduced in price compared to the same or equivalent garments in the previous winter catalogue.  The slump was clearly starting to bite retailers as consumers cut back on spending.

The page below shows a selection of mass produced but stylish coats.    The big fur collars rising above the backs of their wearers' necks were particularly fashionable in the 1930s.  These examples, however, are either made from cheap furs, dyed to look more expensive, or "fur cloth" of various types.  

Regal Two-Tone Collar
A.  ... Fur effect "Queen Anne" and cuffs in stunning two-tone combination trim this stunning coat of Velotone About Two-thirds Wool, a lovely suede finished fabric...

Of Fashion-Favored Snowflake Crepe
B. ... A wealth of style and beauty at little cost!  A beautiful Wool-and-silk "Snowflake" Crepe, a warm spongy fabric.  Soft, fluffy Badger-Dyed Mountain Lamb Fur used generously to form two-way collar and smart cuffs.

With Overcuffs and Plastron Collar
C. ... Enormous value!  Gorgeous new collar and cuffs of lustrous fur-effect fabric resembling Baronduki fur.  Of warm Tricot Velotone.  About Two-thirds Wool with the fashionable suggestion of a ribbed weave.

Tabbed Plastron Collar
D. ... Supreme in style and value!  Beautiful warm dressy coat of a new All Wool pebbly-textured spongy Monotone Crepe that is in for a big year.  Gorgeous plastron collar of Larkin Lamb Fur dyed to resemble beaver with an extra "tab"!

"La Mode Modern"
E. ... A reproduction of a Parisian model!  Of All Wool warm Pebbly Monotone Crepe, one of the season's loveliest fabrics.  Fur effect fabric resembling Broadtail forms Tuxedo collar...

Novel Trim
F. ... Stunningly chic, its brim rising to "heights of beauty".  A snug-fitting "dressy" creation of smooth Luxurio Quality Wool Felt, edged with grosgrain ribbons...

As a bonus, there is a hat advertised at the bottom of this page!  It's typical of the early 1930s, fitting close to the head like the cloche hats of the 1920s, but no longer pulled down over the wearer's forehead.  It's also noticeably asymmetrical, a trait which would remain popular in very different styles of headgear throughout the decade.

"For Christmas 1930" (Weldon's Ladies' Journal, Christmas and New Year 1930 & 1931)

A year on from my last post, and my how the fashions have changed!  Fashion changes between 1920 and 1970 could best be summed up as "hemlines and waistlines" and both changed dramatically between 1929 and 1930.

The centre spread of this issue of Weldon's Ladies Journal depicts a wonderful selection of styles from 1930, both for day ("In the daytime—neatness in style and material—bright colours—demure little folded collars—fresh and crisp, white and gay") and for night ("Romantic evening frocks—clinging lines—subtle velvets—gleaming satins, thistledown chiffons, georgettes and nets").

 

83660
HERE is a new idea—a jacket suit of black marocain lined with chiffon.  The frilly collar and cuffs are soft and becoming.

831942
CHIFFON or printed rayon georgette in yellow and black would suit this new blouse which has a handkerchief collar.

836443
IDEAL for the red or fair-haired girl is this brown crêpe de chine frock, made on crossover lines tying unexpectedly at the right side.

836573
A GOOD idea for your Christmas dance frock, in turquoise blue Courgette.  The bolero, draped hips and floppy bows are becoming.

836553
THIS graceful white satin evening frock, made on classical lines, needs no trimming other than some well-chose jewellry.

836563
SHORT black or brightly coloured capes are worn with evening frocks.  This one is of black velveteen with white fur and lining.

836583
DEEP-SEA-BLUE satin combined with deep-sea-blue net makes this very lovely evening gown.

836593
WHY not try the Grecian style for a change?  This gown carried out in bright yellow georgette, is enhanced by its belt and drapery.

836613
A DRESS in which to pay your "Merry Xmas" calls.  It is of a festive green jersey with white georgette collar and jabot.

836623
RED wool crêpe for this frock with the folded collar and ends of white georgette.  The skirt has a novel shaped hip-yoke.

Fashionable clothing had suddenly grown more mature.  One of Vogue's less youthful correspondents had this to say about the changes in style:

Débutantes might be wearing similar clothes, but I was no longer competing with them.  Such a costume actually demanded that I walk more slowly to be in rhythm with the swing of the long, flaring coat, instead of with tired legs in beige coloured hose, tripping the measure of knee-length flapper skirts.  I could sit down with no thought of dragging my short skirt desperately and ineffectually over my knees every few seconds or else letting it go at that and appearing undressed and ridiculous.

"The Fashionable Forties" by Grace Hegger Lewis, Vogue, 8 December 1930

Vogue wrote for a well-to-do readership, of course.  I sometimes wonder how less prosperous women managed these extreme fashion changes at what was the beginning of the Depression.  Did they try to remodel their old "flapper" dresses?  Was there a desperate outburst of home dressmaking as women tried to replace their entire wardrobe economically?  Were their flapper dresses relegated to home wear as they tried to keep up with the Joneses in public?  Of course the really poor in the Depression weren't worried about keeping up with the fashions.  Having enough clothes to stay warm and decent would probably be all that they could hope for.

Myer Catalogue, Spring & Xmas 1929

 I had this picture in mind for 1929 ever since I started this project.  Here we have some fashionable, higher-end ready-to-wear garments sold by the Myer Emporium in Melbourne.

01—Smart SPUN SILK FROCK, in this semi-tailored style, pleated from yoke back and front; red, lemon, white, almond and beige.

02—ENSEMBLE SUIT, with full-length coat of woollen crepe-de-chine and frock of printed artificial silk; coat lined to match frock.

02—TAILORED COSTUME, of fine worsted suiting, in light brown, fawn, beige or grey tones; silk-lined coat, in single or double-breasted style; wrap skirt.

04—An elegant FROCK of printed silk crepe-de-chine, on black, navy and colored grounds; scarf collar, three slightly flared frills on skirt, buckled belt.  

 Short skirted and drop waisted, these fashions are still very much of the 1920s with only the tiniest hints of the decade to come.   

McCall Style News, May 1928

 McCall Style News simply describes this dress as "Ladies' and Misses' Dress; with scarves", but as it is illustrated by a picture of a young woman racing over a court to return a serve it was clearly most likely intended to be worn as a tennis dress.  Women had been playing (lawn) tennis since the game was invented in the 1870s, but it was only in the 1920s that they could move freely on the court, unencumbered by long skirts and corsets.

Fortunately for us, there were plenty of fashion experts in 1928, giving us advice on correct (tennis) court wear.  First we have Vogue who notes the newest innovation of sleeveless dresses:

The tennis dress is frequently sleeveless, a point of interest in so far as the fashion for sleeveless dresses has never, until this season, seemed quite chic or correct.  It may be that, with the growing practice of spending the summer in resorts famous for their winter sunshine, the smart woman has adopted a fashion that suggests greater comfort and ease.  In other words, like the sports mode in general, the sleeveless dress is the outcome of the sportswoman's necessities.

Vogue, April 15 1928