Thursday, September 20, 2018

10 Plates from "The Delineator" (May 1903)

The Edwardian era at it's most luxurious and feminine—look at those sinuous, Art Nouveau curves!  Rich women bought their clothes from the great couturiers of Paris, and the rest of the middle class tried to emulate them by shopping at the new department stores, patronizing "little dressmakers" and making their own clothes.  This was greatly facilitated by the invention of paper patterns... like these, produced by Butterick.


The colour plate illustrates a "quintette of charming shirt-waists—all of which are of washable materials".  Then as now, a variety of tops were a wardrobe must!  All the examples here are elaborately ornamented with lace, tucks and embroidery—except for the pattern at top left which was described as a simple design that didn't "require a great deal of trimming".


These look like dresses, but they're in fact shirt-waists with matching skirts!  To the left is an outfit in tucked black taffeta with white ornamentation in lace and white taffeta.  To the right waist and skirt in shirred white silk mull with trimmings of "coarse antique lace".


Another pair of shirt-waists and skirts.  The one on the left is made of "cream-colored voile" with "Irish crochet adding materially to the dressy effect."  The one on the right is described as a "handsome visiting toilette" in "brown satin foulard with an appropriate garniture of filet lace."


Two more shirt-waists and skirts.  Of the one on the left the magazine says, "All-over lace and medallions have never been used so generously as at the present time."  Of the one on the right: "That this will be a "white" Summer is evidenced by the many charming creations exhibited in wool, silk, cotton and linen."


On the left we have another shirt-waist and skirt outfit, made in unbleached linen and ornamented with machine-stitched tucks.  On the right is a "charming toilette of white crash" embellished with hand embroidery.


On the left is a “severely plain” street costume made up in gray Summer weight cloth.  On the right the model is wearing a skirt and “a delightful little jacket called the “coffee coat” or “Monte Carlo coatee””, decorated with lace and ornamental buttons.


Both the figures in this plate wear capes and skirts.  “Jaunty capes”, we are told, “lend distinction to some of the latest and most attractive street toilettes.


On the left we have a “ladies costume” made in Swiss muslin “for informal wear”(!)   On the right is a shirt-waist and skirt.  “With the chemisette which the pattern provides” runs the description, “the waist will be appropriate for street wear”.


That dainty garment on the upper left is a jacket—specifically a “bolero jacket or coffee coat” made of lace, and described as a “jaunty and youthful” style.  The skirt it is paired with has shirred flounces and is bordered with satin ribbon.  On the right is a “ladies costume” in one piece, trimmed with lace medallions.


Lastly, for the boudoir.  On the left we have a “dressing-sack” worn over a “skirt petticoat”.  On the right a “Japanese” wrapper or lounging-robe.   The garment was probably inspired by the kimono, but with its set-in sleeves and shirred neckline, only faintly resembles its model.

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