Shopping in Edwardian London ("The Lady", April 1913)

Some years ago I acquired a battered copy of The Lady: A Journal For Gentlewomen, published in 1913.   The covers are missing and the staples rusty—but it is still full of lovely goodies, including over 50 pages of advertising, and an illustrated feature on the latest fashions available in the big stores of West London.  Altogether this magazine provides a fascinating glimpse of the big department stores and how prosperous women shopped for clothes in Edwardian London!

Before we go any further, I’d like to make a few notes on the money in use at the time.  (People who already know this stuff are free to skip ahead.)  A pound (£1) was made up of 20 shillings (20s.) which in turn consisted of 12 pence (12d.)  A guinea was 21 shillings—£1 1s.   Professional fees were traditionally paid in guineas.  The average wage in 1913 was around £67 a year—that is, £1 5s.  You can see from some of the prices I’ve quoted below that the goods on sale were definitely not for the average shopper!  The shops we're talking about here most definitely catered to an upper-middle class customer base—"the carriage trade".

By 1913 the well-heeled ladies who shopped in the big stores could expect to be surrounded by luxury.  The stores were equipped with the latest and the most modern fittings—plate glass, lifts and escalators.  (Harrods was first in this field, installing an escalator in 1898.  On its first day of operation they stationed an assistant at the head of the escalator with smelling salts lest the experience make anyone feel faint.)  The stores were well-staffed: customers could expect service from the moment they walked through the door (opened by a doorman) and they were met by a floorwalker (who'd gently encourage them to buy rather than just browse).  Purchases would be delivered to the customers' homes as a matter of course.

And if the customers chose to make a day of it, there was plenty else to do besides shopping.  To take Harrods as an example again, they provided a gentlemen's club, restaurants and a ladies' hairdressing court.  In-house fashion shows had also become fixtures at many of the stores.

At this date there was a growing trade in ready-to-wear clothing in Britain, even though clothes sizing was in its infancy.  Retailers were beginning to advertise the convenience of being able to walk into a shop and buy ready-made clothing.   At the upper end of the market, however, many customers preferred custom made  clothes.  It was sometimes possible to buy an outfit in either ready-to-wear or made-to-measure versions—for a premium ("Made to Measure 10/6 extra".)  Each of the big London stores had its own workrooms where they carried out dressmaking on a large scale.  They turned out clothes both for individual customers, and as stock for the shop floor.

OK, everybody.  Ready to go shopping?

 

Ribbons at Dickins and Jones.  UPON ribbons at their prettiest some of the smartest hats of the present season rely...  These and countless other novelties grace the ribbon department at Dickins and Jones's, Hanover House, Regent Street, W., which additionally boasts a fascinating array of lovely scarves of the newest type...

 

Harrods: Spring Tailor-Mades  It is quite refreshing to come upon a tweed suit that is really "tweedy" of aspect, for materials have undergone a rather severe refining down...  Five guineas is the price of this coat and skirt... On the right we have another of those most attractive of particularly plain suits at 98s. 6d. with which Harrod's excel...

 

Blouses of Useful Type at John Barker's, Kensington.  The veiled fashion in blouses, which permits the introduction of a second colour, either to tone or to contrast, continues in high favour.... Messrs. John Barker are distinguishing themselves with numerous variations on the theme.  

 

Graceful Gowns at Harvey Nichols and Co.'s.  Not only for its grace of line, but also on account of its really charming colour scheme would the left hand gown sketched above be readily singled out.  Only 11 guineas is asked for the gown... and actually but £4 19s. 6d. for the frock on the right....

 

New Tailor Styles at Peter Robinson's, Oxford Street.  TAILOR-MADE styles, a prominent feature of the spring modes, are the subject of much consideration at Messrs. Peter Robinson's, Oxford Street, W.  Some extremely smart suits have been prepared for the coming season, and two of them are illustrated on this page.

 

The Lingerie Blouse at D. H. Evans.  Of delicately fine white fabric, a triumph of hand-stitchery throughout—inset laces and all—the present-day lingerie blouse has taken up a unique standpoint of indispensability.  How triumphantly it fulfils its obligations no one need be told to-day.  Perfectly and appropriately it provides accompaniment to the smartest spring or summer tailor-mades, or in hot weather gives compelling note to the white linen or French pique skirt for tennis or river work...  This dainty group illustrated on this page has been selected from a most alluring collection at Messrs. D.H. Evans...

 

Dainty Silk Robes at Shoolbred's.  Spring raiment—or rather, the choosing thereof—declines to be put off any longer.  One necessary item is a pretty afternoon frock to supersede the velvet or cloth one that now wanes daily in its suitability, and poplin de soie proves a softly-draping fabric upon which one's choice may well rest.  It is smart-looking and dainty, but exceedingly durable withal, so those charming one-piece robes of poplin de soie for which Messrs. James Shoolbred are so widely known have everything to recommend them.

Distinctive Frocks at Robinson and Cleaver's.  ... The embroideries are beautifully done by hand (in common with most of the dainty enhancement of stitchery that is such a feature of Messrs. Robinson and Cleaver's productions)....  On the other hand, there are lovely lace gowns for summer, fȇte, and reception wear—of hand made lace throughout—price £12 15 s., and anything but expensive at that.

 

Charming Blouses at H. C. Russell's.  Plenty of novelties, many of them quite captivating, greet the eye in H. C. Russell's blouse showroom...  There are "curtain-ring" fastenings for instance—ivory bone rings that slip over the big coloured ball buttons so much in vogue.... Another novelty of the season is the extremely baggy fashioning of the sleeve at the Japonaise shoulder-line....

 

The Exclusive Note at Frederick Gorringes. ... The draped coat (left-hand figure) justifies to a degree the strongly avowed feeling this season for hand-beaded coats on a transparent foundation...  The coat in our sketch is very delicately sewn, as regards the upper part, with tine black bugles, which merge lower down into an encrustation of crystal beads and thence into gun-metal tone, with quite a waterfall effect...

 

Smart Spring Attire at Spence's.  ... A superior tailor-made costume of tan-coloured cord suiting is sketched on the right. The immaculately simple lines and excellent finish of this suit (it costs £4 19s. 6d) are augmented by a restrained scheme of braiding, narrow satin pipings, and a group of six "shot" glass buttons...

 

 Further Reading:

Alison Adburgham.  Shopping in style: London from Restoration to Edwardian elegance.  (London: Thames & Hudson, 1979)

Alison Adburgham. Shops and shopping, 1800-1914: where, and in what manner the well-dressed Englishwoman bought her clothes. (London: Allen & Unwin, 1964)

Elizabeth Ewing.  History of 20th Century Fashion. 3rd edition.  (London: Batsford, 1992)

Simplicity "How-To-Sew" Patterns, 1965

In the mid-1960s Simplicity introduced their "How-To-Sew" pattern series.   They were simple designs, suitable for novice dressmakers, and they each came with a step-by-step "tissue lesson chart" on one aspect of making the garment in question.  Most of the patterns seem to have been aimed at  "teens" or "juniors" (evidently older women were assumed to know how to sew already!) though some were made in adult sizes.

I own the Spring and Autumn/Winter issues of Simplicity Pattern Book from 1965 where a number of these patterns were promoted.  The pictures below were scanned from these issues.

• The lesson: How to attach a collar.

Pattern 5285 - Misses' Blouses

• The lesson: How to apply a neck facing

Pattern 5655 -Women's and Misses' and Women's Half Size One-Piece Dress

 

• The lesson: How to sew special fabrics and leather.

Pattern 5656 - Misses' Pullover, Sleeveless Jacket, Pillbox and Bag

• The lesson: How to apply a waistline stay.

Pattern 5848 - One-Piece Dress with Two Skirts in Women's Sizes and Misses' and Women's Half-Sizes

• The lesson: "How to make a long bias dart"

Pattern 5850 - One Piece Dress and Scarf in Sub-Teens', Teens' and Juniors' Sizes

• The lesson: How to set in a sleeve

Pattern 6052 - Blouse in Sub-Teens', Teens' and Junior Sizes - Simple to Sew

• The lesson: How to apply trims.

Pattern 6096 - Teens and Juniors' One-Piece Dress with Detachable Collar and Tie

• The lesson: How to make and turn a tab and tie belt.

Pattern 6098 - Sub-Teens', Teens' and Juniors' Dress or Jumper

•  The lesson: How to join skirt to bodice.

Pattern 6103 - Jumper, Skirt and Blouse in Teens' and Juniors' Sizes

• The lesson: How to face a neckline.

Pattern 6134 - Teens' One-Piece Jumper with Two Necklines - Simple-to-Sew

• The lesson: How to line a skirt.

Pattern 6139 - Sub-Teens', Teens' and Juniors' Skirt in Two Lengths

"The Australian Women's Weekly Paris Parades 1959"

The Australian Women's Weekly was once THE best known magazine for Australian women.  (It can be found archived online here.)  It published all the usual standards of women's magazines—fiction, celebrity gossip, advice on homemaking and child-rearing, recipes and knitting patterns—as well as regular features on fashion.

After the Second World War The Weekly, in partnership with some of Australia's major department stores, began sponsoring fashion shows that brought the latest Paris fashions to Australian women.  The first was in 1947, and they were still going strong in 1959 when these "Paris Parades" were held.

This supplement presents a preview of the Paris couture collections of spring-summer fashions which The Australian Women's Weekly, in conjunction with the Myer Emporium and Mark Foy's Ltd., is presenting in Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Adelaide.

COVER
"Giumauve," by Carven, orange velveteen evening coat worn by Monique.

 

The Essence of Spring
"Hortensia," a romantic rose-printed cotton satin ball-gown, by Nina Ricci.  The dress is moulded at the waist with a wide self-material belt and finished with a sheer white cotton fichu and cluster of roses.  Collars are important in this house.

 

The summer dream bride 
"Roy Aumont", designed especially for us by Madame Carven.  The material is white organdie scattered with self flowers.  The shaped skirt silhouette and fitted form bodice create a perfect bridal confection.  The white tulle veil adds more Gallic Romance.

 

"AIR INDIA": Easy-fit travel coat and chalk-white chiffon headscarf by Lanvin.  The coat, made in cotton corduroy with a fancy weave surface, is collarless and fastened with white pear buttons.  Four large patch pockets are the only trim.

 

Resort elegance—Dior-designed
"MARPESSA": Herewith, beach elegance assured in clear-cut navy-and-white cotton.  The sleeveless top, tucked neatly into slim trousers, is worn with a chic long-in-length matched coat jacket.  The curve brim beach hat—in navy lined with white—is also by Dior.

"The Dynasty Collection" (from McCall's Patterns, 1983)

I had something else lined up for this post, but I found these and I couldn't resist.

Linda Evans in Pattern 9032

For my readers who don't remember the 1980s,  Dynasty was a prime time soap opera, particularly notable for its soap opera divas Krystle Carrington (played by Linda Evans), Alexis Colby (played by Joan Collins) and Dominique Deveraux (played by Diahann Carroll).  The show ran for most of the decade—from 1981 to 1989.

 Joan Collins in Pattern 9037

It was also famous for its costumes (which won four Prime Time Emmy Awards).  They exemplified a certain kind of eighties look: big hair, big shoulders and lots of bling. 

Joan Collins in Pattern 9244

McCall's put out a range of patterns—its "Dynasty Collection"—based on these costume for home dressmakers who wanted to recreate the "Dynasty" look.

Diahann Carroll in Pattern 9247

 I found these in a McCall's counter catalogue from 1983.  There was actually a whole section of the catalogue devoted to these patterns!

Joan Collins in Pattern 9310

By the standards of today, the fashions look boxy and overdone.  However they suited the "greed is good" decade perfectly!

Linda Evans in Pattern 9360

... And just a little something I noticed.  While "bad girl" Alexis displays a little cleavage, "good girl" Krystle sticks to high necklines, frills and lots of ruffles! 

Wartime Fashion in Australian Home Journal Part IV (1943)

In the wider world, 1943 was a year of stalemate: the Axis powers had been halted, but the Allies hadn't started advancing.

In the smaller world of the Australian Home Journal the editorial staff had settled in for the long haul.  They started printing patriotic slogans on their masthead, and inside the magazine their fashion advice mostly boiled down to: save, renovate and improvise.

 

January 1943

From "Left-overs'
I noted one among many snappy dresses at a recent display on which had obviously been contrived mostly from "left-overs" and the effect was stunning.
Yoke and sleeves were in contrast to the rest of the dress, and where there was not sufficient material to complete the skirt part, a wide band was added of the yoke and sleeve material.  For a school frock it had the look of a pinafore dress, but it you would look at more times than one because of its artistry, combined with the economical use of material, that would otherwise go to waste.  Of course adopting this idea in whole or in part, you must see that your contrasting has an artistic verisimilitude that would be kindly on the eyes.

April 1943

Count Your Coupons
When you are thinking of  buying some garment or a piece of material, count over your coupons and think of the warm things that you will need in the winter time.  The cold weather is only a few weeks ahead.  Better hold your coupons.

*  *  *

The more clothes are curtailed the more frequently shall we see "split" suits, and many a plain skirt will match up with a check coat, or vice versa.  As a matter of fact, the result can be very pleasing.  We noted in one of the recent films that Diana Barrymore, daughter of the famous John, wore a combination suit of check and plain fabric.

May 1943

Versatile Wardrobes
So many old season's garments in the wardrobe; bring them out, they will save coupons and money, money urgently needed to help win the war.

Alteration Scheme
Time and a little patience will accomplish a lot in the way of saving money and clothes coupons if you systematically go through your wardrobe to see what you really can do in the way of modernising your clothes.
Take your swagger coat that looked all right three years ago.  The material is good, but it is out-of-date, and all your friends will remember it!  Well what if they do?  Quite a lot of them would like to have it.
It started life as a check tweed.  Well, why not have it dyed to tone with the darkest shade of the pattern.  You could trim it with a plain cloth in a contrasting—collar, belt, pocket.
This would take very little material from some of the stuff you have on hand.
If it needs shortening, do so.  An inch or two off the hemline will make just that difference between something dowdy and something smart.
Other ideas in the alteration scheme will occur to you, and you will find them well worth while.

New Ration Books
The next issue of ration books will be made on June 5 and 6, according to an announcement by the Minister for Customs, Senator Keane.

June 1943

Coupons Again
In theory, the idea behind rationing and coupons was to limit the number of garments one person could buy.  It didn't matter how much money you might have, you could not buy more clothes than anyone else.
Well, it has not worked that way, and the "shrewdies" have used their heads to personal advantage.  Father, who is well-provided for, and does not require many coupons, passes them on to his wife or daughters, and other quiet stay-at-home folk, whose needs are few, give their coupons to the greedy bargain-hunters and hoarders.
One individual in the press stated he had not used any of his "G" or "H" coupons, and wanted to know what bonus would be given him because he was such a good boy!  There are bound to be inequalities and trafficking, but the equal allocation of coupons, irrespective of individual needs, is the fairest method.  The golden rule for everyone is to remember that coupons are a means to an end, and in order to safeguard stocks and materials, to use as few coupons as possible.

August 1943

Remnants
Remnants of material can often be bought very cheaply and with a save on coupons.  Did you ever try to see what you can do with two remnants of different colours?  Neither would make a frock, but combined, with a little good taste, you can evolve a most interesting dress.  We have seen quite a number of these "make-do" two-piecers about, and some of them are most ingenious.
We noticed one such frock a few days ago, just a bit of red material matched to a red and beige checked woollen.  The bodice, which had a shirt neck, was generously panelled down the front with the red contrast.  The only other touch of red was the belt and pockets.

September 1943

Inside Out
"Here in England," writes a correspondent, "long before the war, there were a number of firms that specialised in turning men's worn and faded suits inside out.  Hey, presto, you had a new suit from your old one!"  Womenfolk are taking a lesson from the book of these tailoring firms, and by turning a dress inside out, evolve a new frock.  The  process is not by any means difficult.  Everything has to be unpicked, cleaned and pressed, and hand adjustments made to any worn parts.

Stocking Sense
Rayon seems to be the most manufactured fabric for stockings now, and a little care on your part will help preserve these so precious articles.
Buy wisely.  Get your proper foot size—that is important.  Put on carefully.  Turn inside out and slip foot on—roll up smoothly; don't suspender too tightly.
Wash frequently.  Wash after every wearing.  Handle carefully when wet.  Dry away from direct heat.  Don't wear until bone dry.
Avoid ladders.  Yes, these can be avoided.  Watch out for the snags—a rough edge on your office desk, a bracelet, ring, or shoe buckle.

November 1943

From America Too
 A Hollywood correspondent tells us the Americans are fond of the pinafore style; "in fact," she says, "they have gone whoopee on pinafores and renovations!"

Suppose that one of your old frocks is like the curate's egg, good in parts.  It may be worn under the arms and a bit shabby and faded down the blouse front.
All you have to do is cut away the sleeves and the under-arms of the blouse.