A History of Blouses - Part 1 (1890s)

In the late 1880s a new garment was introduced into feminine wardrobes: the blouse.  It has waxed and waned in popularity, but has been a staple ingredient in women's dress ever since.  Through the years it has ranged from being as plain as a man's work shirt to being an elaborate confection of ribbons, lace insertions and embroidery.  

In the 1890s the blouse and skirt combination almost became a uniform for the 'New Woman' of the era.  It was worn by women for playing sports, for undertaking further education and for working in the new white-collar jobs that were opening up to women.  

Koch & Co. catalog, 1892

The earliest versions of the blouse were tunic-like garments, usually descending below the waistline over the skirt and belted in.  A popular type of blouse was the "Russian" blouse, fastening on one side  at the shoulder like a Russian peasant's tunic—but not noticeably Russian otherwise.

"Blouses are quite as much worn as ever, and now seem to be made of everything, the most recent fancy being velveteen. The other day I saw a maroon-coloured one which looked very warm and comfortable, and was becoming as well. In fact, it seems difficult to distinguish between a bodice and a blouse, except that the latter differs from its accompanying skirt, and is rather more decorative than a bodice would be."

"Girls' Attire : The Newest and Best", by The Lady Dressmaker in The Girl's Own Paper, 24th of November 1894 

"There is no doubt about the popularity of the blouse. From the highest to the lowest everyone seems to wear it, and it is wonderful what numerous forms it can take... I have before spoken of the wonderfully beautiful colours in which it is now produced, and the pale hues for evening wear being very remarkable in tone and texture."

"Girls' Attire : The Newest and Best", by The Lady Dressmaker, in the Girl's Own Paper, 29th of June, 1895

By the middle of the decade the blouse was being styled in imitation of men's shirts (and called the shirt-waist in America).  Any resemblance was mostly superficial however.  Women may have adopted collars and cuffs—and even ties!—with their blouses, but the sleeves were always fashionably cut, and the bodices always lined and often boned.

Photo by A. Poulson, Goulburn N.S.W. between 1893-1895

A glance at those almanacs of trade, the shop windows, tells us that the shirt waist, the summer girl's first favorite, has come again to charm all beholders with its freshness. It has profited by its last summer's association with the most fascinating of her sex, and presents itself to an expectant throng in all the beauty and attractiveness that it learned from the girl of the seashore and mountains.

Quite as coquettish as its wearer, and knowing full well the value of all its pretty conceit, it easily holds first place in woman's wear for the summer season of '96. It no longer relies upon its simplicity for its charm, and most elaborate are some of the newer styles shown in the smart shops. Two notable changes from last season's designs are in evidence - the very decided Bishop sleeve and the detachable collar and cuffs of spotless white. 

Carson-Pirie Monthly, Mid-March 1896

Delineator, November 1890

"No. 3551—The blouse is here represented made of light dress goods and dark velvet... the girdle is deeply pointed at the top and bottom of the front and back... the closing being made at the left side with hooks and eyes.  The girdle is lined with silk and interlined with canvas, and all its seams and closing edges are boned.  The blouse may be worn beneath or outside the skirt, as preferred.  The blouse is appropriate for wear with any of the fashionable walking-skirts..."

"No. 3549—The blouse, which may be worn beneath or outside the skirt, as shown in the engravings, is in this instance pictured made of a pretty variety of dress goods and velvet to match. It is made over a smooth-fitting lining, which is slightly shorter than the outside... The upper part of the blouse consists of a deep yoke... The lower portions are joined by side seams which are made separately from those of the lining... The outside is closed with hooks and loops... and at the neck is a deep rolling collar that flares at the throat..."

Delineator, May 1896

"No. 8354—The basque-waist is here illustrated in a combination of light brown crépon and green velvet.  Made with a low, square neck and elbow sleeves it is a charming evening waist, while with a high neck and long sleeves it is handsome for any occasion not calling for full dress..."

"No. 8347—The shirt-waist is here pictured developed in white lawn and trimmed with embroidered edging.  The fronts have becoming fulness collected in gathers at the neck, and the closing is made with studs through a box-plait formed at the front edge of the right front... Around the waist is a belt that has pointed ends and is close in front.  The bishop shirt sleeves... are made... in shirt-sleeve style and are closed with link buttons.  At the neck is a large sailor-collar..."

Weldon's Ladies' Journal, June 1897

"No. 13592—A Morning Blouse.  This pattern is suited to serge,flannel, cambric, linen, holland &c. all edges being machine-stitched.  The fitted lining is covered in the upper part with a pointed yoke, under which the material front and back are arranged in box pleats... The basque is worn inside skirt, and waist finished with a sequin, petersham or leather belt finished with a pearl clasp...."

Weldon's Ladies' Journal, June 1897

"No. 13698—A Dressy Blouse.  This design is suited to fancy or plain silk or satin, trimmed passementerie or insertion, or lace, spotted net, canvas, grass lawn &c., over a silk foundation...."

Delineator, September 1898

"1920—Very much in accord with the times is the natty military shirt-waist so appropriately shown made of white piqué with the box-plait, shoulder straps, cuffs, belt and collar of bright military-blue piqué… The closing is made at the center of the front with buttons and button-holes through a box-plait of blue piqué joined to the right front… The neck may be finished with a narrow neck-band for wear with a removable collar, or a standing collar of strictly military cut may give the completion, as illustrated… All cotton shirt-waist materials may be used for this waist, though silk or wool is always attractive."

"1840—Green taffeta silk was here selected for this becoming shirt-waist… Percale, Madras, zephyr gingham, chambray, lawn, dimity and plain dotted Swiss are also suitable for this shirt-waist."

Photo by E. Squire, Hawera N.Z. circa 1898

Every season we are regularly told that the blouse and the shirt are going out of fashion, and every year they seem to become more popular.

Hearth and Home, March 24 1898