"Dress: In Season and In Reason" (April 1889)

The Girl's Own Paper started life in 1880 as a weekly magazine for middle-class young women—teenagers, really, to use a word coined at a later date.  True to its time it was full of piety and tales of good works—and a monthly fashion column.  Written by "A Lady Dressmaker", this column described what was "in" for its readers, and suggested ways they could reproduce them (on a low budget, if necessary).  Unlike many other fashion columns, then and later, the writer was not afraid to criticise what was in fashion, either on moral or aesthetic grounds.  Since The Girl's Own Paper wasn't interested in pushing every latest fad in order to please its advertisers it's an invaluable resource for those interested in

The column appearing in the Girl's Own Paper of April 27 1889 begins by noting that a fashion revival is in progress—of the "Directory" (i.e. Directoire) style of the 1790s:

In the sketch of "The Newest Gowns at the Private View", I have done my best gather together everything that is now known of the future spring styles in dress.  The cold and inclement February kept every idea of spring in the background, and so there is perhaps rather less of novelty than usually to be observed at this time.  Although there are many dresses of the "Directory" style still being produced, I do not imagine that we shall have quite as much of it as during the winter.  The long coats can be so well imitated by the skirts with large pockets and kilted backs and bodices that they will, I think, fall out of favour; while the more simple "Empire" costume, will, very probably, be more worn than anything else.

In the "Private View" we show the new method of making up the striped materials on the left-hand side.  Next to that is the Directoire jacket, and in the front, the new sleeved mantle in plain black velvet.  Of the two gowns at the back, the one is a Directoire jacket, with embroidery, and the other a tailor-made gown, with white panel and waistcoat.  The different shapes and trimmings of the hats and bonnets are also represented.

Of mantles and jackets the "Lady Dressmaker" writes:

1880s mantle, via Pinterest

In the way of spring mantles there seems to be nothing novel, but all the old shapes with modifications will be worn.  Nearly all are short at the back and have long ends in front.  The new jackets have wonderfully embroidered fronts, with a long, straight-cut revers at either side, the linings being of moiré silk.  The latest models appear to be in plain black cloth, with plain black moiré facings in front.  But there are plenty of dark stone, brown, grey, twine and cinnamon colours.  

... There are some novel redingotes with a wide revers in front and a triple "Garrick cape" on the shoulders at the back.  On of the novel wys of putting on braid is to lay it on in stripes that follow the seams of jacket, and finish it off in loops, arranged like trefoil at the edge.  This style will add length to the figure, and become short people.

The bustle was going "out"—but emphasis still lingered on the back of the skirt:

The newest skirts are those with small tucks in front, or are gathered for several inches down.  The backs of these are laid in folds.  The "Empire skirt" does not need with steels or a mattress; but the folds of the dress itself is  are slightly wadded, either underneath or in the folds themselves, to make them stand out.

 Hats were transitioning from the high-crowned styles that were fashionable in the 1880s to the flatter shapes fashionable in the 1890s:


... There are many styles of hats, both large and small.  The smaller shapes have the brim very often turned up at the back, and not in front.  And there is a very ugly hat which has a round brim, caught up to the crown in several places at equal distances all round.  The crowns and brims are often of different materials in various colours, and the ribbons for trimming hats are as wide as those used for bonnets. 

Though few of their readers were likely to go to Court (that is, the Royal Court, rather than to a court of law) The Girl's Own Paper included a sketch of the latest styles:

I am sure that many of my readers will like to see the new Court bodices which the Queen has lately authorised, as a protection to those who cannot wear the ordinary round Court bodice, that has been worn during Her Majesty's reign.  The bodice represented as open can be filled in with white tulle or net, quite up to the throat, if preferred, and transparent sleeves can be used instead of thick ones.  It is reported that they were not very generally adopted at the first Drawing Room held this year; but they are new, and are, moreover, intended for invalids and those advancing in life; for though a doctor's certificate is no longer needed, the permission of  the Lord Chamberlain has to be asked.  

(Well into the twentieth century the official dress for women being presented at court included a low-cut bodice and short sleeves.)


For people wanting to see more of this publication: I've searched online for scans of The Girl's Own Paper, but have been unable to find any freely accessible copies.  However, anyone who is a member of a library which subscribes to Gale Cengage resources might be able to find it: they have all the issues between 1880 and 1900 scanned and available through their "Nineteenth Century UK Periodicals" database.