"To Make Yourself... A Culotte Suit" (Vanity Fair, September 1961)

 Culottes!  Not much worn now, they were wide-legged pants that looked like a skirt.  In the past when

pants were not considered ladylike wear in many situations, women could combine the propriety of skirts with the practicality of trousers by dressing in culottes.

Vanity Fair (the British magazine, not the American one) offered these simple patterns for culottes and a matching top in September 1961.

Overblouse.

MATERIALS REQUIRED: 3/4 yard of Jaska-Djana jersey, 54 in. wide... 1 yard of 3/4-inch wide elastic; Pervivale spun Terylene threat to match; on 6-inch zip.

PATTERN: Fits 34-inch to 36-inch bust.  Each square of the diagram represents 2 inches.  Draw squares onto large sheet of brown paper and draw on pattern, adding 1/2 inch turnings to seams, 1/4 inch round neckline and armholes, and 1 1/2-inch hem.  Cut out pattern.

CUTTING OUT: Leave jersey folded and place pattern onto cloth in the position as indicated on the diagram, e.g. centre front on fold of cloth and centre back lying down selvedges.  Chalk round pattern and cut out two backs (A), one front (B), one bow strip (C) and one pocket (D), double.

MAKING UP: Press well at each stage with a hot iron and using a damp cloth.  Join centre back seam up to notch, leaving opening for zip; stitch darts into back and front bodice.  Press.  Stitch pocket pieces together right sides facing inwards.  Stitch and turn inside out and topstitch onto left side of bodice, as marked.  Press.  Join side and shoulder seams.  Press.  Face or pipe neck and armholes, using surplus material.  Turn up hem, making it 1 inch deep when finished.  Press.  Insert length of elastic, 1 inch shorter than hip measurement, through hem.  Make narrow hem all round edge of bow strip and press.  Tie into casual bow and stitch it at the centre front of the hem.(*)  Insert zip into back of neck.
Alternatively you can leave a vent at the back and fasten with link or hook and eye.  If you prefer your overblouse loose or with side vents, leave 3 inches free at side seams and no elastic.

Culotte.

YARDAGE REQUIRED: 1 7/8 yards of Jaska-Djana Jersey...(2 yards larger sizes); 8-inch zip and 3/4 yard 1-inch petersham for waisband; matching Perivale spun Terylene thread.

PATTERN: Each square of the diagram represents 2 inches.  Square up a large sheet of brown paper and draw diagram onto it.  This pattern fits 24-inch waist, length 24 inches.  No seams are allowed, so add 1/2-inch seams and 2-inch hem.

 SIZING: To alter size, drop points X 1 inch for each size and lengthen skirt to required length.  Increase or decrease hip pleat between C and D to alter waist measurement.

CUTTING OUT: Cut out pattern and open cloth to full width.  Lay pattern on material, chalk round and cut out.  Cut two pieces as pattern.

MAKING UP: To begin with, work on each piece separately, pressing at each stage with damp cloth and hot iron.  Put point X to point X and seam down to hem.  Repeat on other piece.  Press.  Place the points X together, matching A to A, B to B, and seam crotch, leaving 8-inch opening at C B for zips.  Press.  Insert zip.  Make waistband length of waist plus 1 1/2-inch wrap and cover.  Make box pleat  by putting C to D and then attach waistband gathering between points D and B.  Neaten inside of waistband.  Hem each leg by slip-stitching by hand, and your newest, easiest-to-wear fashion garment is ready to be teamed with your favourite sweater or shirt.
French girls like their culottes and trousers to fasten in front.  We do too, so if you prefer the zip in front it is very new and modern, and the pattern needs no adjustment.

"Jaska-Djana" jersey is no longer available, so anyone wanting to try their hand at making this pattern will have to find a substitute.  As always, I'd love to see the results if anyone does take a shot at it!