Concerning Coats VI: 1960s

As the weather turns warmer, it's time to take one last look at coats.  This time we've reached the 1960s!  The fitted coats of the 1950s have gone, but straight and flared (sometimes very flared) coats will remain popular throughout the decade.

Somehow, even the most cheaply made coats managed to look stylish.  The "fur" on the coats below was an imitation made of Orlon.

National Bellas Hess, Fall-Winter 1960

A. PILE-LINED MAGIC BLEND
Glamorous hooded coats luxuriously lined with pure white, soft, fur-look Orlon acrylic pile on a cotton back.  Magic blend coating in white-flecked 85% reprocessed wool, 15% nylon.  Sleeves may be pushed up, if you like; frog buttons close front, vertical pockets.

B.  FUR-LOOK ORLON
The luxurious look of fur—deep, deep cloud-soft Orlon acrylic pile woven on a firm cotton backing.  Becoming clutch style is fashioned with rolled collar, turnback cuffs, vertical pockets.  Inside, a luxurious sweep of acetate satin... just like the linings used in expensive fur coats.  French bottom for longer wear.

C.  LUXURY-LINED FLEECE
What a wonderful way to greet the new season... in a dashing coat that flies its own knit scarf, as an "inside story" too: a deep-pile lining of charcoal-white-and-black striped Orlon acrylic pile woven on a firm cotton backing.  Styled with zing in a warm fleece woven of 35% reprocessed wool, 56% reused wool, 5% nylon, 4% other fibers.  Has smart collar, button-and-tab trimmed pockets, sleeves to wear up or down.

"Dress in Season..." (Girl's Own Paper, August 1885)

 At first glance, the dresses below seem completely unsuitable for wearing on a beach—especially if the wearer is planning on walking on wet sand and exploring tide-pools.  A second look shows that the models' dresses clear the ground—just—and that their bodices and hats are comparatively un-ornamented.  This is probably as close to casual wear as it was possible to get in Victorian times.

The "Lady Dressmaker" who wrote the text accompanying these illustrations, had a lot of advice for her young lady readers who wanted to be well-dressed and up-to-date.

The French style of making dresses at present is anything but pretty; it reminds one of the farthingales of Queen Elizabeth's day, as the skirts are full and the hips are much padded out with an immense dress improver.  The bodice is quite Elizabethan, for it is long-waisted, very tight, and the front darts are placed very high up...

The high neckband is still the principal feature of the dress, and if the dressmaker be not successful in that the effect of the front of the dress at least is spoilt.  They are called straight, but they are in reality curved and cut on the cross.  This is a most useful idea in one way... for the high band is quite protection enough from sunburn and that heated air which is almost worse in its tanning effect...

Bodices are made in several different ways—waistcoats, belted bodices with pleats like the Norfolk jackets, and many bodices trimmed to represent the Zouave jacket.  Many Jersey bodices are worn both with and without waistcoat fronts, and they seem likely to be made up for the autumn with light woollens...

All the varieties of bibs, plastrons and blouse-fronts are as much used as ever just now; white ones are in fashion and are generally pinned on over the bodice front, not fastened in; when really fastened in as a portion of the dress they frequently have straps across of the bodice material buttoned over the fronts.

Stripes continue very popular, and a few dresses have been made of them, but as a rule they are reserved for trimmings and waistcoats, and are sometimes even used horizontally.  Striped and plain materials mixed need great care in the making-up as the stripes must be joined so very accurately, and where the bodice is of the stripes they must neither be too straight nor too much slanted.  I have often noticed in striped materials that they proved most unbecoming to some figures, and wondered why so.  The reason, I find, is that the material has been wrongly used in unskillful hands...

The parasols of unlined lace now seen are the most idiotic of introductions, for they do not give shade, and they do not conduce to the beauty of the tout ensemble...

Butterick Fashion News, August 1930

 We're having an unseasonable spell of warm weather, and I felt like celebrating with a picture of a pretty, summer weight dress.  This pamphlet doesn't advise which materials would be suitable for making the pattern up, but it seems evident that sheer material would be preferred. I'm thinking chiffon, thin cottons, light silks and rayon—which apparently was particularly prized for its ability to "flare" out.

3317  Frock closed at left underarm, skirt having attached bias or straight flare, attached at natural waistline, with or without wrist length sleeve.

It's interesting that the natural waistline is given as a point of interest.  A year or so earlier and the waistline would have hovered around the hips; a year or so later and the natural waistline would hardly rate a mention! 

What We Wore in '74: Knitwear (Myer, Winter? 1974)

 Knitted outerwear has been popular since the early years of the twentieth century.  Fashionable styles vary, of course.  This selection from the Myer catalogue of winter 1974 is classic in inspiration, harking back to the interwar years.  The garments are slim and fitted, but not too tight, and the colours favoured are mostly natural or earth-toned.  Ribs and cables are popular, as are contrasting trims around necklines and hems.

As Myer was a relatively upmarket department store, all these knits are made of pure wool.  A less expensive store would have sold similar fashions made of artificial fibres.

PURE WOOL LONG LINES SHAPE YOU — warm knits styled with fine ribs, skinny stripes.  Wear with pants, skirts, all great colours.
A. Notice the interesting collar.  Cream/navy/tan, navy/tan/royal/cream, cream/burgundy/bottle.
B.  The cute cardigan, finely ribbed to flatter.  Cream/navy/tan, navy/tan/cream, brown/royal/cream, cream/burgundy/bottle.
C.  The sweater with contrast trim again, subtle, stunning.  Cream/navy/brown, navy/tan/cream, brown/royal/cream.

THREE CHEERS FOR WOOL — in high spirited colours — team with skirts and pants for winter '74.
A. The shawl collar is back.  Notice the baby cable jacquard front.  Snug fitting.  Red, bottle, natural, brown.
B.  The crew is high, textures play a big role in '74.  Colours more vibrant — red, brown, magnolia.
C.  Double role neckline, the fine rib flatters your shape.  Warm red, brown, magnolia, bottle.

WOOL'S A WINNER — you're a great success.  Vibrant colours livened by ribbing — contrast trims — all part of the great looks for '74.
A.  Knife rib polo, trimmed dashing detail.  Superb fit — shows your shape.  Fabulous brown, red, emerald, magnolia.
B.  Shaped long-line jacket look.  Flat rib flatters.  Heartwarming colours of red, brown, emerald, magnolia.
C.  Slade's crossover V-neck classic.  Triple rib shows your shape.  Brown, red, emerald, magnolia. — stunning.