Monday, July 20, 2026

"Those Extra Inches" (Needlework Illustrated no. 192, 1948)

 1948 and in the teeth of much opposition the verdict was in: women wanted to wear "New Look" (longer, fuller) style skirts.  Perhaps they were longing for some femininity and a dash of luxury after years of wartime austerity.  The problem was that, three years after World War II ended, there were still shortages of, well, nearly everything.  This was especially so in Britain where rationing and regulations still dictated fashions.  This is where Needlework Illustrated stepped in, offering its readers ideas for turning their dowdy "old look" skirts into exciting "New Look" styles.


1 Ginghams and prints will look all the fresher for a new deep hem of plain material, in white or predominating colour of the pattern.  Blend to each other with rows of ric-rac braid—one on the join, one above.  Collar and cuffs might echo hem.  Sew with Dewhurst's "Sylko" Machine Twist.
2 Flared skirts present a problem.  The answer lies in insert bands of Petersham ribbon which curves readily under dampened cloth and hot iron.  Machine-stitch on ribbon by its upper edge, cut through material close behind, drop material to lower ribbon edge and stitch again.  Press well.

3 A hip-yok lengthens tailored suit skirts successfully.  To get material for this, cut coat to fashionable shortness—to just cover base of yoke.  Unpick skirt waist and darts, join up placket, turn down top edge and stitch tuck-like over yoke, leaving two pocket spaces.  Alternatively join inside neatly.
Prettiest version has wide frill effect.  Use cutting left over from when you made the dress (home dressmakers score again), or narrow skirt to new tubular look.  On an out-moded dress, cut up bodice into frill-strips, so concentrating all material into one good skirt.  Good for waist petties, too.
To be honest, I'm not sure that these hacks would achieve the desired effects.  What I know is that women did try various shifts to lengthen their skirts in 1948.

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