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| 5766 One-piece Bathing Suit |
The "Lammermoor" dress was probably named for Walter Scott's historical novel The Bride of Lammermoor. The jacket is styled after an early 18th century gentleman's frock coat, with wide skirts, flap pockets and deep cuffs. The little tricorne hat perched on the model's head completes the effect. However, there are also many details that mark the jacket as being from late nineteenth century, including the basque bodice, the leg of mutton sleeves, and the deep revers exposing the high-necked bodice beneath.
The Lammermoor coat was available as a pattern from the Girl's Own Paper:
In our illustration of the "Lammermoor Dress" we show one of the long-waisted jackets such as that unhappy bride is supposed to have been arrayed in; and for our paper pattern we have selected the same, as these long coats or jackets, with their long coat-basques, will unquestionably be worn for some time to come. They seem becoming, too, to nearly all figures save the very short and stout, and they go well with the plain skirt which is now worn...
The paper pattern for the month, as we have said, is a "Ravenswood", or a "Lammermoor Jacket", which will be suitable for serge or cloth, and for use as a walking or indoor jacket, to be worn on mild days with a boa or ruff. There are twelve pieces, and great care must be taken to bone the bodice firmly, and put in the linings evenly and neatly. The long basque will need lining with silk, or if not, with sateen; and unless in the hands of a good fitter, the home dressmaker may fail in both the ways suggested, unless very careful.
(That last is somewhat discouraging advice for home dressmakers!)
This year I'm going to do a series of posts looking back fifty years to the styles of 1974, an era which seems at once strangely modern and a very long time ago. And since it's now the Australian summer, what better place to start than looking at what we wore at the beach?
F: You'll have it all wrapped up in this nifty beach wrap. Drop shoulder style makes for comfort and of course it's styled in Bri-Nylon—what else?
G: Itsy bitsy, teeny weeny bikini. A little nothing to turn heads on the beach this season. Elasticised under the bust and back strap. Fibre filled bra to give shape while still looking natural. Bri-Nylon.
A: Handy chenille cover-up...B: Comfortable hip-length cover-up...C: Cool bias stripes on jersey...D: Snappy shift to match bikini...E: Ada jersey bikini. Fibre filled bra, 3" side brief. Fully lined...
F: Long-singlet shift in carefree cotton/nylon towelling. Crisp stripes on white with flattering neckline and silver ring trim.
In spite of the number of "cover-ups" for sale, 1974 was the heyday of the deep, dark, fashionable tan.
Bikinis are front and centre in this catalogue, though a few one-piece swimsuits lurk around the edges. You'll notice that there are no "string bikinis" for sale. They had just been introduced in 1974 and were presumably still so new that David Jones didn't have time to include them in their catalogue. However, The Australian Women's Weekly had things covered (or not so covered), with a pattern for a string bikini included in it's October 30 issue.
And so we reach the end of our Christmas countdown. Merry Christmas, everyone!
Lest we think that the 1970s were all polyester pantsuits and denim jeans, here is an evening dress in the grand manner from 1973. It was made by Detlev Albers in Berlin.
DETLEV ALBERS, BERLIN
Distinguished evening dress with long fringed shawl made of pure silk.
Continuing our Christmas countdown, we take a look at a gala evening dress from 1953. In some ways the 1950s was a backward-looking decade, with fashions leaning towards old-fashioned formality, femininity and glamour. However, it was also the first decade to fully make use of modern easy-care synthetics for clothing. The dress below illustrates this paradox beautifully. It would not look out of place in Victorian ballroom, but it's made of nylon!
Evening beauty in nylon. Atrima from Harrods.
If party dresses in the 1920s were youthful and exuberant, evening dresses in the 1930s were slinky and sophisticated. Here is a glamorous duo from 1933, depicted at "An evening at the casino".
ROBE en organdi ave petit collet à volants. La robe simple, décolletée avec bras nus, est garnie d'une ceinture en ruban drapé et noué sur le côté. Jupe à deux volants trѐs amples superposés. La cape est mobile et peut s'enlever à volonté.
[Organdy DRESS with small ruffled collar. The simple, low-cut dress with bare arms is trimmed with a draped ribbon belt tied at the side. Skirt with two very loose, superimposed ruffles. The cape is mobile and can be removed at will.]
ROBE en crépe Georgette vert jade. Corsage orné de découpes symétriques devant et derriѐre. Petit effet de col berthe. Robe de forme princesse, trѐs large du bas. Echarpe de mousseline imprimée.
[DRESS in jade green Georgette crepe. Bodice decorated with symmetrical cutouts at the front and back. Small berthe collar effect. Princess-shaped dress, very wide at the bottom. Printed muslin scarf.]
As the festive season kicks off and we all start celebrating, I thought it would be a good time to look at the party clothes we wore in years past. First up, some dresses from Butterick in 1923:
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4883—For Holiday dances this slip-over dress which drapes around the figure and is held in front by a hand-made chou, is lovely in moire, crȇpe satin, plain crȇpes, satin crȇpe, lace, etc. The straight skirt is joined at a low waistline.
4851—A slip-over dress of chiffon velvet, crȇpe satin, satin crȇpe, plain or printed silk crȇpe, or crȇpe de Chine, printed silks or lace has a two-tiered straight skirt with drapery and joined at a low waistline. It closes under the left arm and the long body lining has a camisole top.
4899—A full, straight skir with either five or three rows of trimming gives the tiered effect to this slip-over dress with a draped basque which has an armhole in two depths. It closes under the left arm and the skirt joins a slightly long underbody with a camisole top. There may be a straight drop skirt. Use moire or taffeta with lace edging frills and a hand-made ribbon bow and flowers, etc.
