"A Hat For Every Frock" (Needlecraft Magazine, June 1929)

What is stylish 1920s outfit without a matching cloche hat?  It's no longer possible to run down to the nearest hat shop to pick one out, but fortunately it's still possible to make one.  Christine Perry and Maren Thoresen came up with these patterns in crochet originally published in 1929.

No. 3903 N—with Crocheted Brim

Using double thread (one end from each of two balls), chain 6, work 1 double in each of 5 stitches and 3 in end stitch, drawing up the loose end closely, so as not to leave a hole.  Continue with 5 doubles down opposite side of chain and 3 in second end. 

From this point continue round and round, increasing so as to keep the work flat by occasionally working 2 stitches in one along sides as well as the ends.  This is especially important at the beginning of the crown, as it must not "cup" or "peak" at the center.  Neither should the stitches be increased so rapidly that the crown shows a tendency to frill.

Work in this manner until the circumference of the top is of the same measurement as your head-size.  To make sure of this, measure with a tape drawn snugly around the head at the point where the hat is desired to rest, and multiply the number of inches by the number of stitches which your work counts per inch.  Then continue working without increasing until the side of the crown is of proper height, which necessarily varies with different individuals.

The brim is made in two parts—a front which falls softly about the face, and a back which turns up against the crown.  The length of the front must be determined by each worker, to suit her own face, and should extend to the point where the "turn" would come if the brim extended all the way round and were turned up across the back.  Mark the points where the brim is to end, with pins, remembering that the oval center of the crown-top should extend from front to back.

Work 1 row between these points without increasing, then chain 1, turn, 2 doubles in first stitch and continue across, increasing 1 about every 15 stitches, so as to keep work flat, the same as crown.  Work 2 doubles in end stitch, chain 1, turn.  Continue back and forth in this manner, always increasing in each end stitch, then chain 1 before turning, until brim is of the desired width—about 10 rows.  Fasten off.

For back brim, join thread and work back and forth without increasing, chain 1 each time before turning, for about 9 rows.

For the embroidered trim: Cut out paper motif, baste in position on crown and work row of running-stitches just outside edge, picking up only a thread or two between the surface stitches, which should be fully half an inch in length.  After this row is worked, remove paper and fill in design with rows of running-stitches spaced about a quarter of an inch apart.

For the embroidery use rope embroidery-silk in a contrasting color to that of the body of the hat.

 No. 3905 N—with Felt Brim

  The crown of this model is made in exactly the same manner as No. 3903 N.  After the brim is cut it is placed around half an inch inside the crown all around and secured both inside and out with fine sewing-stitches, making sure that the front and back are in line with the lengthwise oval of the crown top.

Although this model will work out attractively in any color-combination, it is exceedingly effective in a white crown with brim and trim in flame-red felt.

Eight or nine balls of No. 5 perle cotton will be needed for this crown, according to size of head.