Concerning Coats V (1950s)

 The 1950s was a fairly conservative decade, and overcoats, being an expensive wardrobe investment, tended to be fairly conservative too.  Except for a few minor details, such as buttons and trimmings, coat styles mainly stayed unchanged through the decade.

There were three main coat shapes in the 1950s: fitted, flared and straight. 

Wakes, Winter 1950

CORDED BACK "FASHION AWARD" DRESS COAT in pure wool gabardine  A superbly styled dress coat with divinely slender, perfectly balanced lines achieved by expert tailoring and craftmanship.  Double breasted princess front with new high buttoning rolled collar and two bound "button-hole" pockets.

David Jones, Autumn-Winter 1951

JAEGER coats box or belted style, all fully-lined

These beautifully tailored coats are made in camel-coloured wool and fully lined with good quality lining.  In cosy "Jaeger" with easy-fitting raglan sleeves, you'll be ready for the coldest winter.  Each has vent back.

Butterick Patterns, Fall 1952

there's a smart variety of silhouettes in The full and fitted coats

5905—Looking for a coat that's practical and travel-minded?  We've found the answer to your search—a casual coat with distinctive curved seam detail.

5906—Every complete wardrobe needs a fitted dress-up coat.  Here's the Princess... one of the most flattering silhouettes.  Use fur fabric for collar and cuffs.
6285—The coat with two interesting personalities: straight and tailored in front... flared and soft in back with a curved yoke 'cross the shoulders.

Modellina, Primavera 1953

2576.  Elegante soprabito con ajours e motivo di sciarpa.
2577.  Soprabita adatto a tutte le ore.  Slondo di piega sul dorso.

2578.  Elegante soprabito da mattino.  Nuovo motivo di manica.
2579.  Redingote da pomeriggio con guarnizone di sphighetta nera.
2580.  Soprabito elegante con ricami e collo a scialle.

[2576. Elegant overcoat for day with scarf motif.

2577. Overcoat suitable for all hours. Pleated back.

2578. Elegant morning overcoat. New sleeve motif.

2579. Afternoon frock coat with black twill trim.

2580. Elegant overcoat with embroidery and shawl collar.]

Vogue Pattern Book, February-March 1954

8219—For those who like a fitting coat and especially good for the mature figure, this redingote has a graceful flare and an inverted back pleat.  Make it in fine, smooth fabric—perhaps grey worsted, barathea—later, we suggest, in grosgrain or faille.

S-4439—A flaring coat in blue and grey woollen, buttonless—to be worn straight or wrapped-over.  The current emphasis on broadness at the top of the figure is stressed by a wide collar, kimono sleeves, a deep, pointed back yoke plus top-stitching.

8165—Make a straight coat to wear over your suits and dresses in a really beautiful, fine, pale tweed.  The curving kimono sleeves turn back to form narrow cuffs.  The coat is loose, pleated from the waist at the back for hidden fulness—a coat with endless uses.

(These coats from Vogue Patterns were originally published as part of an article about creating "capsule wardrobes" from a few coordinated garments.  Each capsule was built around one key garment—in these cases, the coats.)

National Bellas Hess, Fall and Winter 1955

OUR BUDGET QUALITY
Alpaca... magic name in high fashion... in a coat and topper that just naturally make front cover news!  Expensive styling, usually found with price tags to match... now yours for so little.  100% Alpaca on a knitted cotton back...

Rockmans, Winter 1956

Left: WHITNEY-FINISH DOVETYN BOX COAT.  A style that is flattery and appear from hem to collar!  Contrast saddle stitching enhances the notched rever collar and deep notched cuffs on inset sleeves.  One-button fastening...

Right: DOVETYN FITTED COAT.  Sheer luxury in every line—a fashion coat everybody can wear to perfection.  Emphasis is on the smart portrait shawl collar with its precise rows of stitching...

National Bellas Hess, Fall-Winter 1957

[4] Embroidered Velveteen
Practical as it is beautiful!  Luxurious, water-repellent cotton velveteen coat.  Rich rococo embroidery adorns collar, front facing to hemline, back yoke, push-up sleeves...

[5] 85% Woolen, 15% Nylon
Smart confetti-flecked coat in a warm blend of 85% reprocessed wool, 15% nylon.  Notice the fashion-right back detailing, jeweled buttons...

[6] Wool Tweed ... Fleece Lined
Glamorous, sophisticated coat combines two fabrics just made for each other.  Luxurious 100% new wool brushed tweed is lined with rich, soft nylon fleece.  Wear the hood up to protect you from coldest winds or down as a flattering collar...

[7] Zibeline Fleece
Graceful fitted coat in war zibeline fleece... 85% new wool, 15% nylon.  Stylish cape collar, banded with velvet, converts as if my magic to a protective, flattering hood...

By 1958 fitted coats appear to have faded out of fashion.

Alexon, 1958

Model 2809.  You'll be pampered... you'll be cuddled by this luxury lining—'Minkaleen'—the fur fabric with the look and warmth of the "real thing".  We've used it to line this coat of all wool velour—we have it in a range of wonderful colours.

Model 2885.  Made of an all wool luxury—long pile cloth; lined—lavished with ocelot lamb.  We have made this wonderful coat in many new fashion shades—Mink, Glen Moss and Wild Violet—to mention but a few.

Constanze Mode, Autumn-Winter 1959-60

 Smart town ensemble in rust-black tweed mixture.  The new style, 9/10 coat is double-breasted with slightly wider shoulders.  The fashionable "funnel" sleeves are just a trifle shorter.  Cravat and cap in Persian lamb to match.

Having reached the end of the decade, we can see the first signs of change.  The 1960s were on the horizon and fashions were about to become much more daring—yes, even in coats!